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Old 06-04-2022, 02:40 AM   #11
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Check the vacuum lines are cracks or splitting where the hoses attach to the nipple. You could even remove them ONE BY ONE to plug one end of the hose and suck or blow or use a vacuum pump attached to the hose and see if there are any leaks that you can’t see. Put the ONE HOSE back correctly and move to the next one. This method ensures there are zero leaks and you can eliminate the hoses for certain.

Use a small piece of cardboard or card stock or paper cut with a scissor to the size that’s needed to separate the solenoid pins(above the pins and as wide as the pin housing is all that’s needed) and then clip on one of the alligator clips to power(9V battery, truck battery or similar source). 9V on a 12VDC system is all that’s needed to energize the solenoid. That’s 80% working, or hold up energy, that’s needed to hear the “click” within 1 second of energizing.

Idle, I think, is 800 rpm with +/- 50 rpm. So yours is a bit low.

If your throttle body has allen head bolts holding it down to the intake. Take a 6mm allen socket with a 3/8” Dr. torque wrench and torque the bolts(carefully) to 30 ft./lbs. and recheck the idle for fluctuations. But under regular maintenance. The throttle body base gasket(about 8 bux) needs to be changed. I don’t recall what the schedule says when to change it. Yours is probably past due.

It sounds like your truck needs the basic maintenance items taken care of. When these are taken care of. A base line is established and troubleshooting can begin.
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Last edited by PorknBeans; 06-04-2022 at 02:53 AM.
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Old 06-05-2022, 12:03 AM   #12
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I retorqued the allen bolts on the throttle body today and they were good to go. Its good to know about the throttle body gasket, i've got one on order now and will replace it when it comes in. The throttle seems to stick a little when going from closed to open so it'll probably need a good cleaning while I'm at it. I also replaced all the fluids in the car (except for the transfer case and differential) when I first got it to help give the truck a nice fresh start. If you have any other maintainence suggestions that you think I should take care of on a "new to me" truck I'm all ears. Between this post and my last one you've been extremely helpful Pork, I greatly appreciate it

As far as the EGR solenoid I think I might've got to the bottom of the problem. I can't believe I missed this at first but after getting my head wrapped around the vacuum diagram I noticed that there was definitely something off about it... lol. Port C is hooked up to a t-connector that branches off into the air duct and the throttle body connections, where as port A goes as it should to the EGR. Port B is well... snapped off at the hose connection and is currently open to atmosphere. I'm wondering if this was a way of bypassing the EGR altogether, or if this is just some janky way of accounting for all the vacuum hoses after someone snapped it off.



I'm gonna see if theres enough room left on Port B to hook up a hose and run the vacuum hoses correctly and see what kind of difference it makes. And while I have it off I'll try the 9v battery testing to see if its even worth salvaging. For doing that test: any idea which side I should hook the positive up to vs the negative? Say the solenoid is oriented upright with port C facing up, would I hook the positive side up to the right or the left terminal? Looked through the FSM to see and its unclear to me which side is which

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Old 06-05-2022, 01:04 AM   #13
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Well, B is supposed to go to atmosphere so it shouldn’t matter, but C should absolutely not be T-d between anything. It should only go to the throttle body connection.

As for energizing the solenoid, polarity shouldn’t matter but the ground is black/white and the positive is blue/white according to the diagram. Worse comes to it, just reverse the leads if you don’t hear a click and try again.
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Old 06-05-2022, 02:19 AM   #14
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Gotcha, I wasn't sure if hooking it up wrong would short the switch. And good to know about port B. Maybe if worse comes to worse and I can't get a hose hooked up to that, I can just let it rock being open like that.
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Old 06-05-2022, 07:48 AM   #15
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Glad to help where I can…

A thorough cleaning of the throttle body throat and butterfly using carb cleaner and a rag is always good to do periodically. It’s actually part of a tune up for modern vehicles. Promotes a smoother idle, better throttle response and no choppiness of the butterfly catching on the built up carbon on the edges of the butterfly and walls of the throttle body throat.

It looks like Port B is a gonner. The entire nipple has been broken off. If you can salvage the solenoid. You might create a vacuum leak. Maybe replace it to rule out induced issues.
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Old 06-05-2022, 04:31 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by St00pkid View Post
If you have any other maintainence suggestions that you think I should take care of on a "new to me" truck I'm all ears. Between this post and my last one you've been extremely helpful Pork, I greatly appreciate it
Pay close attention to the clutch system. The hydraulics on this can fail and leave you stranded. Just keep up, for now, on the fluids and keep an eye out for drips on the floor.
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What he is saying is the aerodynamics of a D21 is a brick in the wind.
Probably at least as bad as a Jeep so worse than a cow.
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Old 06-18-2022, 10:17 PM   #17
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Sorry its taken so long to update, but I was able to attach a vacuum line adapter over the piece of the EGR solenoid that had broken off and successfully ran all the vacuum lines where they're supposed to go. After taking the truck out for a spin I was able to drive it much further than the CEL would normally pop on, and never had it show. Still not sure if the EGR is functioning properly as I still can't get the diaphram to move by adjusting the throttle at idle, but overall I'm happy with it as it idles at a much more stable rpm range and I can drop it off to be inspected without having to reset the trouble code and hope for the best.

Thank you all for the help, I greatly appreciate it!
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