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Old 05-14-2022, 02:48 AM   #1
Bman2895
 
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Default Air Conditioning only works certain times.

truck is a 2000 with the vg33 and the ac behaves alittle weird. AC works great in the mornings. AC works great at night. AC wont work at all when its actually hot. And I don't mean its not cooling well, I mean it wont even engage the compressor.

I have about 50 mins worth of driving in the mornings, AC works fine the entire time. Ice cold. When I go to leave work I got nothing 99% of the time. Sometimes, but rarely, it will kick in right when its first started but it only runs for 15 secs or so then its back to doing nothing. So its clearly temperature dependent as it will work fine when the temps are cooler.

Im pretty well mechanically inclined, but AC systems aren't my cup of tea. Where do I start?
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Old 05-14-2022, 06:59 AM   #2
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The refrigerant level needs to be checked. It could be low. You can get a manifold gauge set from harbor freight for about 50 bucks. You can buy a can with the hose from Walmart and add a little, but that isn’t really the correct way. I mean it works, but with the system not working correctly it needs to be serviced.
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Old 05-14-2022, 01:54 PM   #3
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If the freon were too low it wouldn't cycle correctly regardless of the temperature right? I never really trust those Walmart gauges. I tried that but with the compressor refusing to engage at all its hard to tell how much is actually in there.
I need to have it hooked to a machine and pulled down and recharged so I
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Old 05-14-2022, 02:40 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillacdude1975 View Post
The refrigerant level needs to be checked. It could be low. You can get a manifold gauge set from harbor freight for about 50 bucks. You can buy a can with the hose from Walmart and add a little, but that isnít really the correct way. I mean it works, but with the system not working correctly it needs to be serviced.

Actually, while real gauge sets measuring both low and high side pressures at 2000 rpm are helpful, the only real way to determine refrigerant level is to have a shop pull out the existing refrigerant and WEIGH it (expensive machine).


Never blindly add refrigerant, and NEVER add sealant or any refrigerant containing sealant, can ruin an AC system PERMANENTLY. Pure R134a, correct type and amount of refrigeration oil, and UV dye is acceptable - nothing else.







Quote:
Originally Posted by Bman2895 View Post
truck is a 2000 with the vg33 and the ac behaves a little weird. AC works great in the mornings. AC works great at night. AC wont work at all when its actually hot. And I don't mean its not cooling well, I mean it wont even engage the compressor.

I have about 50 mins worth of driving in the mornings, AC works fine the entire time. Ice cold. When I go to leave work I got nothing 99% of the time. Sometimes, but rarely, it will kick in right when its first started but it only runs for 15 secs or so then its back to doing nothing. So its clearly temperature dependent as it will work fine when the temps are cooler.

I'm pretty well mechanically inclined, but AC systems aren't my cup of tea. Where do I start?

I think what you wrote in red above is the clue. First, let's assume that you fan clutch is operating properly, this is important. Second, I had a similar issue with my 1998 Frontier a few years ago: compressor would not engage or keep engaged when hot. For me, the "gap" in the AC clutch had worn, and the gap was too large the fix for me was to remove a shim under the AC drive plate.


I bought some 5mm x 0.8mm x 25mm long hex head screws to pull the AC clutch drive plate off, after removing the 6mm bolt in the center of the AC clutch with a 10mm socket. Then I threaded in the 5mm x 25mm hex head screws evenly to pull the clutch drive plate off. The official service manual shows a way to do this that's either tougher or impossible.

I cleaned up the steel surfaces with a piece of abrasive "tape". There were two shim washers under the drive plate, so I removed the thinner of the two, then re-installed the AC clutch drive plate and that will make the AC clutch "gap" narrower (yet not so narrow that it scrapes in the disengaged position).


I also replaced the fan clutch since it was lifetime warrantied and I had removed that for better access to the AC clutch. So I'll need to try this out and see if solves the problem.


I used my home-made 10mm long wrench to get the fan clutch nuts off easier.
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Old 05-19-2022, 11:50 PM   #5
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there should be a "thermo amp" on the evap (pt#27675-9Z000) check that out..
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Old 05-20-2022, 03:54 AM   #6
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Sorry ive been busy and havent had time to update. So it was a hot one today, and when i l left work i didnt expect the AC to work, but to my surprise it worked great. Worked great for the solid hr of driving i did. Only think i noticed different was the fact that the clutch fan stayed engaged. where as before it only really engaged at start up. Then i never heard the clutch fan again usually.

So whats the link?
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Old 05-20-2022, 11:42 AM   #7
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Make sure the air flow is not restricted by debris or bent/damaged fins. When the engine is at full operating temp, the clutch fan should be fully engaged. Roll up some newspaper and stick it against the fan blades with the engine running. It if stops turning easy, the clutch is bad. The one on my truck was so worn out I could stop the fan blades with my index finger.
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Old 05-23-2022, 05:39 PM   #8
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FWIW the compressor will not come on if the inside blower is not switched on, or if the switch is faulty. It is a multi-function switch. One of it's functions is determining that the fan is on, and then it triggers the rest of the circuit.
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Old 05-23-2022, 06:40 PM   #9
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I would check to see if you have power going to the AC compressor clutch when the AC does not come on, or just see if the AC clutch is engaged when you say it does not work.


If you have the AC on when it's hot out and the clutch is not engaged it could be a wiring problem that is effected by the temp,


If the clutch is engaged and you have no AC than it could be a Freon issue.
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