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Old 05-27-2020, 03:33 PM   #11
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No need to pull the axles completely out. Just unbolt them. Not much clearance but just enough.





Speaking of German motor swaps, I've looked at doing a 2.7T swap in my A4. With the 3.0 there is already no space. Can't imagine with 2 turbos stuffed in there.
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Old 05-27-2020, 05:35 PM   #12
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Speaking of German motor swaps, I've looked at doing a 2.7T swap in my A4. With the 3.0 there is already no space. Can't imagine with 2 turbos stuffed in there.
Looks like that would be a tight squeeze. From what I had found it doesn't look like the profile really changes much side to side, more just below and at the front.

When I did the 3.5 it was no problem at the sides. I just need to knock in the firewall a bit and shorten my driveshaft
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Old 05-27-2020, 06:43 PM   #13
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At least the 3.0 and 2.7 are basically the same. The 3.0 cranks are used for stroker 2.7s. Even the same tranny so I have a 2.7 SMF for my 3.0 when I get to do a flywheel swap.
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Old 05-27-2020, 08:55 PM   #14
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At least the 3.0 and 2.7 are basically the same. The 3.0 cranks are used for stroker 2.7s. Even the same tranny so I have a 2.7 SMF for my 3.0 when I get to do a flywheel swap.
Nice, doesn't sound like it would be too bad other than working in a cramped bay, ha.



Well, after a few days of bitchin at myself and banging various parts of my arms off of metal, I got the engine pulled! 😊 Ended up not having to pull the torsion bars out, able to work the rear brace around them. Not sure I would have been able to, easily anyways. The retaining clip was facing the wrong way, so taking it off it would have been hitting the lip of the crossmember.

The top bellhousing bolts weren't bad to get to either. Had just enough room to get my hand back there with a wrench. Just took kneeling on the radiator support and balancing.

I have a fair amount of cleaning to do in the bay. In the next couple days I'll hopefully be able to source a leak down tester from harbor freight. Only one parts store near me said they could order one, for 130. Found the same one on clearance at harbor freight online for 25. I want to test the new engine for leakage before I start taking the heads apart to swap the cams out.

After looking at the belt diagram I noticed I may not be able to completely delete the power steering since that's what acts as the tensioner for the water pump belt. My options would either be rebuilding the steering box that I had pulled out before to reinstall power steering, using just the pump as a pulley, or fabricating something that will hold the pulley. I'll look at that further down the line and decide what I want to do.

Empty engine bay ? https://imgur.com/a/vDmT5u9
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Old 05-28-2020, 12:40 AM   #15
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The D21 engine bay is pretty big once everything is removed! It's not too bad. The only hard part is that stupid diff.



In the Audi it's another story. Can't even see all of the heads it's stuffed in there so far. I'm not sure I could even replace the serpintine belt without pulling the nose.of the car off. There is a wizard that has done several 2.7 swaps into I4 cars plus manual swaps at the same time in an afternoon. I am in awe.
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Old 05-30-2020, 03:32 AM   #16
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vg33e and vg30e truck cams are identical. You want cams from a vg30e equipped car (z31, Maxima, J30) for any difference in power. Alternatively, you could order regrinds from http://schneidercams.com/300zxv-6.aspx. You need to send in your camshafts for a regrind, but keep in mind that the truck cams start out smaller than the car cams and sending in truck cores for regrinds limit your choices.
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Old 05-31-2020, 02:17 AM   #17
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Forgot to grab any pictures, but got to disassembling the new motor. Did a leak down test before and was seeing 20%+ mostly from the rings, partially from intake valves on some of the cylinders. The block looked good. Some sludge in the bottom of the oil pan, but crank and control arms look good. Also the crank seals are in good shape.

Looking at a re-ring and a valve job, so I'll end up getting the block and head sent off to the shop. I'll just figure out everything I need to order, so hopefully I'll have everything when it comes back and I can just start right back into it.

(Come to think of it, what would be the drop in leak down with a cold engine that's been sitting for awhile? Could be cold 20% would be just fine when warm?)

I'll get some pictures up tomorrow.



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vg33e and vg30e truck cams are identical. You want cams from a vg30e equipped car (z31, Maxima, J30) for any difference in power. Alternatively, you could order regrinds from http://schneidercams.com/300zxv-6.aspx. You need to send in your camshafts for a regrind, but keep in mind that the truck cams start out smaller than the car cams and sending in truck cores for regrinds limit your choices.
Oh. I understood them being different. I'll have to look into that. If that's the case I won't worry about pulling them from the vg30 then. Thanks.
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Old 05-31-2020, 10:44 PM   #18
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Here's the pics after disassembly.

VG33 disassembly https://imgur.com/a/zbr22VL
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Old 06-02-2020, 10:16 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quickshift View Post
vg33e and vg30e truck cams are identical. You want cams from a vg30e equipped car (z31, Maxima, J30) for any difference in power. Alternatively, you could order regrinds from http://schneidercams.com/300zxv-6.aspx. You need to send in your camshafts for a regrind, but keep in mind that the truck cams start out smaller than the car cams and sending in truck cores for regrinds limit your choices.

That is very very incorrect. VG30 truck cam are more aggressive than VG33 truck cams. VG30 is about 254/254 vs the VG33 240/244. The VG33 also has less lift as well as less duration. .393" vs 354". VG33 also has more shift to high RPM over the VG30 cams. They are less aggressive, need more RPM to make power than the VG30 cams.


Much of this has to do with emissions controls. A USDM VG30 cam is basically what we call a "Euro spec" VG33 cam.
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Old 06-03-2020, 04:58 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deerhurst View Post
That is very very incorrect. VG30 truck cam are more aggressive than VG33 truck cams. VG30 is about 254/254 vs the VG33 240/244. The VG33 also has less lift as well as less duration. .393" vs 354". VG33 also has more shift to high RPM over the VG30 cams. They are less aggressive, need more RPM to make power than the VG30 cams.


Much of this has to do with emissions controls. A USDM VG30 cam is basically what we call a "Euro spec" VG33 cam.

Yea I was looking that up. From what I found the duration on the truck came are 248/248 with the increased lift. Seemed like the pre 87 cars had 252/252. Either way the vg30 cams have more duration and lift.

Getting the block and heads to the shop today. 3 of the rod bearings had a fair amount of wear to them and kinda stuck to the crank. Was wanting to reuse them, but I might as well change em out. More than I was wanting to do, but with not being on so much of a time crunch I'll just get it all dealt with now so I won't have to worry about it at all for quite some time.
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