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Old 04-16-2021, 05:56 AM   #22891
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Dang, that's cheap for one of those power stations. I've thought about making a crude one before using a deep cycle battery but I don't think I could do it for less than $170.

Scifi...I think you'll like the solar panel. My folks have been using solar with their campers for years. If you ever use one with a conventional deep cycle battery the solar panel will take a small eternity to charge it but it works great as a battery maintainer. It's been my experience that as long as the battery is fully charged initially and you keep the electrical load pretty small (for things like the lights, USB rechargeable stuff, and water pump for the sink) the voltage will be back up to a nice 12.6V by mid-afternoon the next day.
The only way to go on a solar panel is a Renogy. They are far and above in quality of the others. I was getting 48-52 watts out of that thing. If you search out Renogy solar combos at Amazon, they have a 100 watt starter kit that comes with a 30 amp controller (you could expand to 400 watts with that) and your battery connector, some other stuff. About 150 bucks, but they are offering it up at no interest deal for $31.50 for five months. And 100 watts is a lot more solar than you think. That will easily charge up two deep cycle batteries.

The problem with going deep cycle for straight, non-trailer/non RV camping is that you have to buy an AC inverter too, and the batteries are frickin heavy. That power box back there is much more convenient. You could buy the 50 watt solar panel and the power box for what it would cost you for the battery and the inverter. I went the inverter/battery route for years until I found that power box. If your power goes out at home, but your cable still works, you can use the box to power up your modem, a laptop, your cable box, and a small TV at the same time. Maybe a couple of lights too.

On an actual Nissan subject, I finally have a recommendation for LED headlight bulbs and getting OUT of sealed beams. You know there are all these different LED headlight bulb brands and sometimes weird results. Well...I found a combo that works on any pre-98 Nissan truck.

First....get these housings in 6x7 size (for two headlight systems) or in 4x6 (if you have four headlight system). Thirty bucks at Amazon. Steel housings with actual chromed reflectors, not painted plastic. Thick glass fronts. Trucks take the 6x7 size unless you have a 720 Datsun truck. Then it's four lights at 4x6. The lens is DOT approved, but not a stock design, more like European, and they take to LED headlight bulbs really well. High/Low beams work like they should and you don't blind oncoming cars. (If you aren't ready to commit to LED headlight bulbs yet, you can upgrade to some Osram Nightbreakers in halogen instead. They really work the best, as far as halogens go.) If you have an older four-headlight system, you will have to order TWO sets of housings. They are sold in pairs. For two sets of the smaller 4x6 for older hardbodies, this is 50 bucks. Two light system is 30 bucks.

Then...get the Torchbeam LED headlight bulbs listed HERE. They are 46 bucks a set. Amazon will tell you they won't fit your truck. Baloney. They fit great. Amazon does not recognize ANY LED headlight bulb for a hardbody. None of them. That's because hardbodies are listed as sealed beams. But they fit just fine into those new housings. So what you are looking at is a total cost of 76 bucks or so to switch out of sealed beams and into LEDs that actually work for that price. It's a steal.

I listed the LED headlight bulb that fits trucks, but I found out this whole system works by switching out the wife's 98 Pathy for modern housings, which I discovered are more set up these days for LED than the old ones were. The old stuff scatters the light, or high beam is crap, etc. Then I ordered the Torchbeams that fit her Pathy. Holy cow...great beams high and low and they work. So I will switch over the truck soon as well.

See...the problem with going LED on hardbodies wasn't so much the bulbs...but the headlight housings were a factor. The ones I listed will present the LED light really well. Worked on the Pathy real good. Next the truck.

IMPORTANT: Right now I do NOT know which LED bulbs would fit these housings for a FOUR headlight system, but I will check it out. But if you are going to do the conversion, I still recommend the Torchbeam brand.

Edit: Okay, for you owners of the older four headlight systems, this is the bulb match you use to find your LED headlight bulbs: H4656, H4651 (One is high beam, other is low beam)

I'm still not sure on what LED bulbs you would use for these four light systems. But if you switch out the housings first, just to get away from sealed beams, that's a good start. Some of the four LED headlight systems I saw mentioned the high and lows have two different types of connectors. If your old Nissan has different connectors for high and low beam, these *MIGHT WORK.* But I haven't had a four headlight system since the 80's so you should do some research. I would get the housings first and then go from there. 9005-9006 are the stock headlights you run on those, the sealed beams. The Torchbeams I listed there supposedly fit 9005-9006 systems.
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Old 04-16-2021, 01:18 PM   #22892
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Remember, every bulb, LED, HID works different in different headlights. What works in an Autopal ecode may not work in a Hella Ecode or any other. Small variances of reflector design can be thanked for that.
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Old 04-16-2021, 05:30 PM   #22893
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Hauled 1850 pounds of crushed #6 gravel. It was a might bit squirrelly above 50 lol



I imagine it WAS squirrly. That's what my camper weighs, but some of that weight is over the cab, plus I have a tag axle with electric brakes. It made me nervous before I added the tag.
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Old 04-16-2021, 09:02 PM   #22894
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Remember, every bulb, LED, HID works different in different headlights. What works in an Autopal ecode may not work in a Hella Ecode or any other. Small variances of reflector design can be thanked for that.
Also, remember that LED's and Incandescent bulbs have different resistance. Often times there is not enuf resistance to click a turn signal solenoid, with a "plain LED". Needs a resistor installed. Ran into this with my 70's & 80's KZ cycles. It can/does matter the manufacture'r. Yea, really!
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What he is saying is the aerodynamics of a D21 is a brick in the wind.
Probably at least as bad as a Jeep so worse than a cow.
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Old 04-17-2021, 04:35 AM   #22895
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Often times there is not enuf resistance to click a turn signal solenoid, with a "plain LED". Needs a resistor installed. Ran into this with my 70's & 80's KZ cycles. It can/does matter the manufacture'r. Yea, really!
That also applies to the warming light for the alternator. Chased a no-charge condition last week for 3 hours until I swapped back to a regular bulb.
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Old 04-17-2021, 12:37 PM   #22896
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Also, remember that LED's and Incandescent bulbs have different resistance. Often times there is not enuf resistance to click a turn signal solenoid, with a "plain LED". Needs a resistor installed. Ran into this with my 70's & 80's KZ cycles. It can/does matter the manufacture'r. Yea, really!

A LED is a diode. Current only flows one way at very low resistance. The average headlight bulb is something like 5 ohms and it's resistance will rise when the filament it heated. LEDs do not have the same relationship with resistance. if you try to do the equations as if an LED is a resistor it will actually have more resistance than an incandescent. the ideal diode will have zero forward resistance so in practice the LED when lit will have a very low resistance.



The resistor method of "fixing" hyper flash is not a good way to do it. Those resistors become very very hot as they dissipate lots of heat. They can become hot enough to blister paint. Getting a flasher relay designed to work with LED is the best way.



The "error free" LEDs already have the circuitry to fool the system into seeing the expected resistance when current is flowing. Assuming the LED is actually "error free". This is a tag line you see a lot with sellers targeting German car owners. Many German cars will tell you what bulb is out of you have a bulb die.
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Old 04-17-2021, 10:17 PM   #22897
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I imagine it WAS squirrly. That's what my camper weighs, but some of that weight is over the cab, plus I have a tag axle with electric brakes. It made me nervous before I added the tag.
Do you have a truck camper? I'd love to see some pictures. That's pretty heavy if so, I doubt mine weighs half that. You must be over GVWR by a fair bit. I once put about 2500lbs of landscaping brick in my old 2wd Hardbody so I know they can do it. Thing was a champ, had to take it a couple hundred miles and it squatted way down but pulled it well.
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Old 04-17-2021, 10:51 PM   #22898
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Easy pull today.

Old girlfriend paid me to go mow her yard. I took the front bucket off so the little BX2200 could get in and around shrubs faster.

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Old 04-18-2021, 12:44 AM   #22899
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Those little BX tractors are cute!
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Old 04-18-2021, 11:29 AM   #22900
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Originally Posted by 89'HBV6 View Post
Also, remember that LED's and Incandescent bulbs have different resistance. Often times there is not enuf resistance to click a turn signal solenoid, with a "plain LED". Needs a resistor installed. Ran into this with my 70's & 80's KZ cycles. It can/does matter the manufacture'r. Yea, really!
Get your LED bulbs (everything but headlights) from Superbrightled dot com and you won't need resistors. For the turn signals, you have to switch your flasher unit to an LED flasher is all.
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