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Old 03-05-2021, 02:24 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by jp2code View Post
Really? New information.

How long ago did you do this? Like, how many miles have you put on the engine since doing the timing chain?
10k miles ago- itís misfired since I got the truck at 114k miles, it currently has 138k
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Old 03-05-2021, 02:49 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by tannerg1223 View Post
10k miles ago- itís misfired since I got the truck at 114k miles, it currently has 138k
If your distributor was set wrong, that would cause issues - but usually it is more extreme than you are describing.

Another thought: the distributor does go out from time to time. I don't know how to test for a bad distributor and they are expensive. When they do go out, they don't act like any one issue because they are big components and do not go out the same way. Some crack, some short out, some have internal components that come loose - and each issue behaves differently.
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Old 03-07-2021, 05:42 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp2code View Post
If your distributor was set wrong, that would cause issues - but usually it is more extreme than you are describing.

Another thought: the distributor does go out from time to time. I don't know how to test for a bad distributor and they are expensive. When they do go out, they don't act like any one issue because they are big components and do not go out the same way. Some crack, some short out, some have internal components that come loose - and each issue behaves differently.
Being honest, this is the second distributor Iíve replaced in the time Iíve owned it. Last time was roughly 10k miles ago when the truck shut off and wouldnít start again. My cam position sensor went bad out of nowhere and I replaced the whole distributor since the CPS is built internally. The first time I replaced it was when I purchased the truck- not because I needed to, but because I wanted to replace a few things for peace of mind on my new vehicle.
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Old 03-07-2021, 05:43 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by PorknBeans View Post
Have you pulled the injector harnesses to check the resistance on each of the injector's coils?

Specs are 10 - 14 ohms at 77*F for a 1996 HB model.

It's a quick determination if the coil(s) are good on each injector. Just put the 2 DMM meter leads across the terminal pins and read the Ohm's. At least with this test. You can potentially eliminate a bad coil(s). Are these original injectors? Hitachi? Aftermarket? Sticking injector needle? Coil giving high resistance at 3500 rpm?

How about a fuel pressure test? All Grounding points clean and tight? I would check for continuity at ALL connectors/connections. These are points of looseness, bad crimps, corrosion etc.

I would also perform continuity tests from the ECM's harness, when disconnected, to the injector's harness connector. Set your meter to "tone". So that you can hear the "beeeeeeep", if continuity is achieved. Factory Manual on page EC(Engine Control)-280 shows that Pin 102 is Injector #1, Pin 107 is Injector #2, Pin 104 is Injector #3 and Pin 109 is injector #4. Check for continuity AND power to the injector's harness. Should show battery voltage at 12VDC -14VDC.

You can even use a screwdriver to listen to the "taps" of the injector needle when the coil is energizing and deenergizing. I use a mechanic's stethoscope to help listen to specific places on a component for testing.

These tests will hopefully eliminate key elements that may have been overlooked or worse. Never checked. Devil's in the details. Proceed with a fine tooth comb. If not, you will be chasing this problem and a turbo engine may never happen.

Just some thoughts to consider...
Just purchased a voltmeter today and will be testing injectors and wiring tomorrow, my compression tester arrives Wednesday, Iíll keep you guys posted!
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Old 03-07-2021, 05:45 AM   #25
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Alrighty then!

Looking forward to your test results...
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Old 03-08-2021, 05:08 AM   #26
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Update, all four injectors test out at 8.6-8.5 ohms. They look like hitachis but I don’t see a logo which makes me think they are aftermarket...
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Old 03-09-2021, 04:00 AM   #27
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pics?
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Old 03-31-2021, 12:18 PM   #28
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Its been a minute guys, my apologies. Here's what I have done in the past few weeks: swapped old injectors for ones in known, good working condition- issue persists. vacuum tested my EGR valve and it holds steady pressure so no tears in the diaphragm. that's not to say that the pintle isn't being held open though by means of carbon buildup.

Cylinders 1-4 ordered top (1) to bottom (4)
Compression test (dry)
135 psi
130 psi
133 psi
137 psi
no notable change when oil was added to cylinders
conclusion- rings are in decent shape

Compression test (running)
91 psi
81 psi
90 psi
92 psi
Conclusion- possibly a valvetrain issue...
(weak springs, valve not seating, worn cam lobe, etc.)

let me know what you guys think! Again, I apologize for the wait. I've been busy trying to track down this issue XD
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Old 03-31-2021, 12:22 PM   #29
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Went ahead and checked all major grounds in the engine bay, each are clean and tight. Fuel pump shouldn't be an issue as it was replaced about 6 years ago by the previous owner (allegedly).
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Old 03-31-2021, 09:38 PM   #30
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Replace the fuel filter
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