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Old 06-29-2021, 05:42 PM   #11
street_rulerr
 
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does it make more sense to pull the motor rather than the diff for an oil pan job? i mean, you can do SO MANY MORE little irritating repairs wit the motor on a stand.
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Old 06-29-2021, 06:01 PM   #12
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Yes and no. From what I gather the diff has to come out to pull the motor anyways. If I were doing a complete overhaul of everything I'd pull the motor but for now it's not in the budget. The main priority is fixing the leak. I also don't want to mess with the exhaust and the clutch is still fine.

Don't get me wrong, part of the reason I want to buy this thing is to one day pull the motor and put a VG33 in its place. But that'll have to wait.
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Old 06-29-2021, 07:16 PM   #13
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why wold the diff have to come out to get the motor out? wouldnt you just loosen/remove the trans mount and pull the whole assy at worst?



maybe im approaching this wrong, is something held captive by the front diff that prevents the motor or motor/trans/xfer case from coming out as a unit?



note: i have a drippy oil pan i just let go cause of all this.
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Old 06-29-2021, 07:50 PM   #14
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The oil pan won't clear with the diff in place. If it was just seeping a little bit I'd ignore it, but it's at the point where it starts to leave a puddle of oil after the engine has been running for a few minutes.
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Old 06-29-2021, 07:53 PM   #15
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The front diff is basically hooked by the oil pan. You have maybe 1/2 or so that you can move the motor forward. It's not enough to even get the locating pins out of the block to get the motor out. Gotta drop the diff to remove engine with it without the tranny.
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Old 06-29-2021, 08:35 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by street_rulerr View Post
you can do SO MANY MORE little irritating repairs wit the motor on a stand.

That's why I pulled my KA24E, to work on all sides of it. However, one thing I didn't do, but should have, was to replace the freeze plugs in the block. One later failed on the left side of the engine.
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Old 07-01-2021, 04:54 AM   #17
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I went out and picked up a transmission jack earlier, so that part is taken care of. Looking at it I think it's the right tool for the job compared to a regular floor jack. And I'm sure I'll use it again in the future for something else. It'll probably still be a few weeks before I get around to this, I still have to source parts.
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Old 07-03-2021, 01:25 AM   #18
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If it has a manual trans, the engine has to come forward about three inches for the input shaft to clear the engine and clutch assembly. When the diff is in place, the pan hits the chunk. An automatic should just lift straight up and out once the torque converter bolts are out.
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Old 07-06-2021, 12:24 AM   #19
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Well, I thought I'd post an update. It's done, and it sucked just as much as everyone says it does. That transmission jack has already paid for itself as far as I'm concerned.

Also, thanks Caddy for that tip on removing the front crossmember. That was the ticket for getting it back in. I had to cut two of the bolts to get them out but it's no biggie, I just bought some new ones and ran them through the other way. At least if it ever needs to come down again it'll be a lot easier.
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Old 07-06-2021, 01:04 AM   #20
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