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Old 12-08-2021, 02:45 AM   #11
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Only use silicone grease (not sold in any parts store apparently) for the guide pins. My guess is that you pushed all the dirty fluid back into your master and ruined the seals internally and now the fluid is leaking past the orings.
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Old 12-13-2021, 01:34 AM   #12
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So, took a look at it and the slide pins shouldn't be the problem, since I didn't touch in them at all. Apparently the two bolts that attach the calipers to the disc (which were the ones that I removed) and the slide pins are different things.

Brake fluid apparently isnt leaking anywhere since the fluid level is still the same.

Bled the 4 brakes and the same thing happens. First time I press the brake pedal it goes lower than it should, and is almost as if it isn't building enough pressure to brake. If I release the brake pedal once, and then brake again it brakes just fine.

Yesterday, was making a hard turn and the right wheel (wheel where I replaced the bearings) made a screeching sound. First time that this happened. It was almost as if something was scratching the disc brakes, I'm not sure.

Been driving the truck like this for like a week, so clearly did something wrong. Guess that will have to remove everything and reinstall
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Last edited by PFDSA; 12-13-2021 at 01:40 AM.
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Old 12-13-2021, 04:16 AM   #13
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I would HIGHLY suggest NOT to drive the vehicle with this condition. Far too much is at risk here.

Pull the hub, bearings, races and loosen and retorque the bolts that hold the discs to the hub. Be certain that high temp grease is installed inside of the hub’s cavity to keep moisture out. Repack the bearings with hi temp grease, wipe clean the spindle and add a nice smear of more hi temp grease to that area. Reinstall everything and check that it all spins freely. The hub’s nut should only be torqued to 5 ft/lbs. and the cotter pin is then installed .

There is a specific order in which the to correctly bleed the brakes. Since you have a 4x4 model. You’ll need that bleeding procedure because it’s different from a 2 wheel drive model, due to having different components on the vehicle.
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Old 12-13-2021, 05:23 AM   #14
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I do believe you have air in the hydraulic system. Whether the master cylinder has an air leak or simply needs to be bled first before any other component is bled in the order it should be.

I thought I just had to bleed the brakes starting with the furthest wheel from the master cylinder. But I had the same pedal to the floor issue until I bled the load sensing valve first. Then went through the other components did the pedal start to feel normal when I pressed down on the pedal.

The procedure is in the manual for your year truck at NICO under “BR”.
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Old 12-14-2021, 02:32 AM   #15
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Have someone press and hold the brake pedal. Check the three rubber lines….l front, r front and rear above the differential. It makes me wonder if one is about to fail aka “snake belly”. Her older lexus had a rear caliper hose rubbing the rear sway bar link. It caused the hose to swell when braking. The pedal would slowly drift to the floor when stopped.
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Old 12-14-2021, 03:52 AM   #16
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I concur with Caddy…

A full component inspection is required at this point since you have a serious safety issue going on.
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Old 01-21-2022, 12:37 AM   #17
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Sorry for the late update.
Took everything out again, and apparently the lock nut wasn't properly tightened, so the wheel was wobbling, messing up the brakes... Live and learn
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Old 01-21-2022, 09:14 AM   #18
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Glad you got it sorted…

But, YIKES!, wheel wobble?! Holy smoke.

Now THAT’S scary. I wonder if the bearing race(s) have been scarred or slightly damaged after that “screeching” sound. That sound was metal on metal.
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Old 01-21-2022, 02:00 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PFDSA View Post
Sorry for the late update.
Took everything out again, and apparently the lock nut wasn't properly tightened, so the wheel was wobbling, messing up the brakes... Live and learn

Over a decade ago, Mrs. Cusser was 200 miles away on a Sunday, and a front wheel bearing went bad on her Yukon front wheel. This resulted in excess play like you experienced, as wobble pushed the brake pads away from its rotor, resulting in almost no braking. Being a Sunday, and not knowing if Yukon could get serviced early Monday in a small town, and she had two dogs with her, meant road trip to fix !!!
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Old 01-21-2022, 05:55 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PorknBeans View Post
I wonder if the bearing race(s) have been scarred or slightly damaged after that “screeching” sound. That sound was metal on metal.
I'd watch the bearing on that side, long-term, for early failure... or just get a new PAIR, and replace both fronts. You'll be set if this is the route you can take.


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