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Old 04-20-2021, 06:12 PM   #51
Hoseman1958
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Originally Posted by jp2code View Post
Let him know when you have his number written down so he can remove it from the internet, if he wants.
Done!
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Old 04-20-2021, 06:15 PM   #52
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Will do. Thank you! Look forward to meeting you!
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Old 04-21-2021, 11:08 AM   #53
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Sounds good, go ahead and remove the #1 spark plug and the distributor. Leave the oil pump and shaft installed.
Will I also need to remove fan/fan shroud so that we can get on the crank bolt?
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Old 04-21-2021, 01:11 PM   #54
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Yes, that would help too.
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Old 04-27-2021, 04:33 AM   #55
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I'm grateful to this forum for all of the help I received on this project. Nonetheless, it does not have a happy ending. After countless attempts to get the timing right, we did a compression test yesterday and the results shows 1: 140, 2: 115 3: 135 and 4: 135.



My neighbor says that the valves on number 2 are probably bad. I'm pretty sure that it is something we did wrong in the process that led to this.....because the truck pretty much ran like a sewing machine before we started. At one point, it was suggested by my help that we move the position of the plug wires on the distributor in a clockwise direction. When we tried to start it, the truck seemed to seize. Freed everything up the next morning with breaker bar on crank bolt.....and can get the truck to run, but not without sputtering.


Neighbor says that he and another guy could probably do a "valve job".....so I asked him for a quote, and I'm waiting to hear back.



I need a light duty truck and want to salvage this one. Would appreciate any advice on how to proceed with a valve job / rebuild.



One other thing.....when I put the timing chain on, I made sure that the colored links lined up with the punch marks on both the crank sprocket and cam sprocket. When I put the tensioner on, there was just a wee bit of slack just near the crank sprocket on passenger side. Is there any chance that somehow, the chain jumped a link....and if so, could that have caused the valves to fail?
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Old 04-27-2021, 04:51 AM   #56
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Do you feel anything binding if you spin the engine over with a ratchet? It's different than the normal resistance you feel from the compression, and you'll know it when you feel it. You can also take the spark plugs out to make it easier to turn the engine over. I've never seen the timing chain jump on one of these, although I suppose it could happen. Usually you have to be more than just one tooth off for the valves to hit the pistons.

If you know for sure that the head has to come off again, IMO I'd just take it to a machine shop and be done with it. The last time I took a head to a machine shop it was ~$200 to get it resurfaced, have the valves lapped and the valve stem seals replaced. That was for a DOHC 16 valve head out of an older Tacoma. Not identical by any means but they should be pretty similar price wise.
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Old 04-27-2021, 06:18 AM   #57
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No, there isn't anything binding when you turn with a ratchet. I'm pretty sure that the oil pump shaft is in correct position with number one cylinder on TDC. Truck runs, but there is a new "metallic" element sound to the rough idle.


I should note that when I removed harmonic balancer with number one cylinder on tdc, the timing notches were way down at @ 9:00. I put a paint mark on the balancer at the actual spot where the pin sticking out of the timing cover was. I forgot about this, and when we realized it yesterday and aligned the harmonic balancer (new) to correspond to the paint mark on old balancer, we got our best result of the whole process.


Unfortunately, something had already happened to the valves on number 2. We pulled all the plugs. They were new....and numbers 2 and 3 were carbon-ed up. The compression test then showed the weakness of number 2.


Thank you for the additional info regarding the machine shop. I have a head gasket and new bolts. What additional parts might I need to buy for the valve work?
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Old 04-27-2021, 06:46 AM   #58
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You'll need to get some new valve stem seals. OE ones are probably the best choice given the amount of work involved in replacing them, but I have also had good luck with fel-pro seals in the past. Don't buy cheap no name ones. You'll also need some new valves if any of them are bent or otherwise damaged. The machine shop might want to source these parts themselves.

With the head off one thing you can do is remove the camshaft (so all the valves will be closed) then flip the head upside down and pour some water into the combustion chamber. If any of the valves aren't sealing you'll see it dripping out of the intake/exhaust ports, depending on which valve it is.
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Old 04-27-2021, 10:45 AM   #59
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Originally Posted by Hoseman1958 View Post
At one point, it was suggested by my help that we move the position of the plug wires on the distributor in a clockwise direction.

Neighbor says that he and another guy could probably do a "valve job".....so I asked him for a quote, and I'm waiting to hear back.

I need a light duty truck and want to salvage this one. Would appreciate any advice on how to proceed with a valve job / rebuild.
Are your help and your neighbor the same person? That person might be giving you bad advice.

Do you have any good local Facebook groups that you could post in for advice? Like ask around for a mechanic or shop that specializes in these older vehicles. A tow to the shop doesn't cost that much, and you might be out a few hundred bucks for the work, but you will have your running truck back - and it's still going to be less than a monthly car payment.
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Old 04-27-2021, 11:31 AM   #60
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Sounding as if the engine needs pulling and a total going-through. That's my idea of a great time; nothing more statisfying then a well-done rebuild.


Of course you must have the time, tools, space, will, and funds. And a good machine shop nearby.
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