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Old 04-05-2021, 07:51 PM   #41
Hoseman1958
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I don't know what the part shown in the picture below is, but it was attached to the timing cover (directly below the thermostat housing) and had a hose attached to it at the back. Whatever it is, I probably need to replace it because it is clogged with some sort of cloudy looking sludge:


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Old 04-05-2021, 08:11 PM   #42
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I've never seen anything like that before.

I know there is a coolant line that goes through the intake. The ECU uses that to help with cold starts.

Or, that could be something that helps with the inside heater.

Interesting.
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Old 04-05-2021, 08:26 PM   #43
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That's the PCV baffle. The PCV valve threads into it and should be replaced at the same time since it'll never be easier. You can spray some carb cleaner in there to clean it out. I think it's plastic so I'd be hesitant to soak it in solvents.
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Old 04-07-2021, 08:36 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XoXSciFiGuy View Post
Timing covers are brittle as hell because of the thousands of heat-ups, (running truck) and cool-downs, (sitting truck) over so many years. DO NOT DROP THE COVER. It will crack for sure. Some people lay an old blanket on the ground...just in case.
  • You have to remove the oil pan. You probably knew that already.
  • Don't use a screwdriver to try and pry it loose. It will leak afterward for sure. Or crack or break.
  • Rubber mallet works best. First one side gently, then the other. Go all around. Easy doing this, no hard whacks.
  • You can use a Stanley knife blade to 'gently' free up the old sealant, and a ball peen hammer, but keep the blade straight and try not to nick into the metal. You get the blade in there and work it in a downward direction. I would lock the blade down with a small vise grip and then tap tap tap gently.
    You are better off using Scotch Brite pads to clean up the mating surface on the timing cover side, rather than trying to scrape it with a blade. On the block side you can use a blade.
  • When you put the timing cover back ON...don't overtighten the bolts. Biggest mistake people make. You will definitely crack the cover, especially on the bottom corner bolts.
    I think it's 10 pounds max on the cover bolts. That's factory-new numbers. I have done no more than 8 pounds and let the sealer and the gasket do their job. No leaks. No need to overtighten.
  • The best way to set Top Dead Center is to remove the Number One spark plug and stick your finger over the hole. Use your big wrench to bring the crank pulley around. When the air pushes your finger out of the way, you are on the compression stroke. Put a skinny screwdriver in the spark plug hole and turn the crank pulley this way, then that way, just a little bit each way. You will feel the top of the piston coming up by feeling with the screwdriver. When it reaches the top of the stroke, just move the pulley back and forth a tiny bit more until you know the piston has reached the very top of the compression stroke.
    Then...stop. You are at TDC on the compression stroke. From there, everything just goes back in normally.
  • If you finish everything, start the truck, and it rocks, rolls, and backfires on you...this means you are off a tooth on the oil pump gear. One tooth off when shoving that pump up the engine's wazoo is equal to TWENTY degrees of timing. (Sixteen teeth on the gear, equals 20 degrees of timing for each tooth.)
  • If you have an assistant looking down the distributor hole with a flashlight...from above...while you are trying to install the oil pump...to make sure the shaft is installed correctly...this is MUCH easier than getting up and down off the ground to look all the time.
Awright.....got everything back together and the truck started right up....but is running somewhat rough compared to before the repair. No backfiring, just not as smooth as before.


We moved the distributor around to its limit in both directions with only minimal improvement. Would a good guess be that we are off a tooth with the oil pump spindle? If so, any hint on whether to turn it clockwise or counter clockwise? Is there any other reason that the timing might be off? Installed new distributor cap, rotor, plugs, and plug wires using clockwise firing order 1,3,4,2. Anything wrong with that configuration?



Need to admit that the thermostat housing seems to be leaking (because I used rtv alone w/o a paper gasket probably.) I also forgot to tighten at least one of the bolts on the water pump. I will be removing the damned fan shroud once again to solve those problems.


Any advice on the timing / oil pump spindle would be appreciated. All in all, the truck starts and runs good....just not near as quiet and smooth as it did before I started all of this.



SciFi, if you are reading this.....I just discovered your post in this thread with some better information on timing issues following a timing chain replacement: http://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/...ferrerid=10942. In addition to the possibility that we are "off a tooth" on oil pump spindle/distributor....what if I wasn't absolutely on TDC when I put the chain on? I think I mentioned earlier that the key way on the cam sprocket seemed a little off. I think it ended up being at @ 1:00 position. I have a wooden dowel that I tried to use to be as accurate as possible on that, but it kept getting pinched in the cylinder and I don't think I was able to use it effectively. Would it be smart to try and optimize "TDC on the compression stroke" before we try to re-adjust oil pump spindle. I also forgot to ensure "punchmark alignment" relating new oil pump to spindle. This may be a dumb question, but do I need to drain the oil again before we start messing with re-positioning the oil pump/spindle? With all of this said, we are pretty close....so I am trying develop a strategy to make it close to perfect.

Last edited by Hoseman1958; 04-08-2021 at 10:37 AM. Reason: Additional Info.
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Old 04-07-2021, 09:24 PM   #45
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There are lots of people in this group who have done their own timing chain job, and just about everyone comes back saying it messed up.

My V6 has the timing belt. It is also a pain to get right, and I messed it up the first time I did it.

That said, most owners who go back in there wind up getting it fixed right the 2nd time. For me, the instructions seemed to make more sense the 2nd time around. Maybe that's the same deal with the KA24e engine.

I really think that timing cover should have a rubber gasket. Making an RTV seal just doesn't sit well with me.
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Old 04-20-2021, 01:47 PM   #46
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So, it looks like the "scored" timing chain cover was the culprit regarding the coolant in the oil. The new timing cover, chain, etc. are installed.....but with the help of a neighbor with mechanic skills, we have been working for two weeks off an on to get the oil pump situated right. The truck runs now, but it is rough and lacking power. we have tried everything that has been suggested on this forum.....many times and are close...but not close enough to getting the truck running correctly.



I would like to take it to a professional shop to see if they can get it right but, given the aforementioned hesitancy from several places to work on a vehicle with an "interference engine" or to warranty a repair on old "interference engine," I'm casting about for the right language to use when seeking a quote so that I don't get soaked financially in the deal. Any suggestions about how approach a repair shop with this problem would be appreciated.


In my mind, what needs to be communicated is to insert that oil pump using the correct "tooth alignment" with punchmarks for pump and spindle matching, when the truck is on tdc compression stroke and rotor point to cylinder # 1.

Last edited by Hoseman1958; 04-20-2021 at 04:33 PM.
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Old 04-20-2021, 03:35 PM   #47
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I can explain to you how to get it set correctly on the phone one afternoon if you’d like. I’m occupied this afternoon but I’m available most afternoons after about 3 pm central.
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Old 04-20-2021, 04:41 PM   #48
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Thank you K! If Thursday at 3:00 PM Central will be good for you, I'll call at the appointed time. My neighbor Gary who has been helping me will be here.
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Old 04-20-2021, 05:26 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoseman1958 View Post
Thank you K! If Thursday at 3:00 PM Central will be good for you, I'll call at the appointed time. My neighbor Gary who has been helping me will be here.
Let him know when you have his number written down so he can remove it from the internet, if he wants.
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Old 04-20-2021, 05:27 PM   #50
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Sounds good, go ahead and remove the #1 spark plug and the distributor. Leave the oil pump and shaft installed.
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