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Old 05-14-2021, 07:45 PM   #21
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dont put a cat on it, if you dotn want to. get a spark plug anti-fouler. the front and rear o2 sensors just need to read a delta between them. the anti fouler is just a little spacer that makes the rear read a little less gas so it thinks the cat is working. theyre like 7 bucks for a 2-pack. use both on the rear sensor




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Old 05-14-2021, 08:04 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvdswan View Post
Maybe I missed it. But what was the original code(s) from the OBD II scanner?

Only code stored was cylinder #4 misfire, he said
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Old 05-14-2021, 08:22 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by dvdswan View Post
Maybe I missed it. But what was the original code(s) from the OBD II scanner?
The only code recurring- P0304
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Old 05-15-2021, 01:16 AM   #24
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For your misfire check that the wires aren't burnt up on the end. I originally went with cheapo no-name wires and every few months the ends would burn up and need to be cut off. It did the exact same thing, popping on deceleration.

Not having a cat won't affect how it runs. Usually you will just have a perpetual P0420 code. Older models don't even monitor cat function.

Quote:
Originally Posted by street_rulerr View Post
dont put a cat on it, if you dotn want to. get a spark plug anti-fouler. the front and rear o2 sensors just need to read a delta between them. the anti fouler is just a little spacer that makes the rear read a little less gas so it thinks the cat is working. theyre like 7 bucks for a 2-pack. use both on the rear sensor
They also make dummy oxygen sensors that make the ECU think everything is kosher back there. As long as the downstream sensor is still working you can actually get a resistor and a capacitor and make your own (man I miss radioshack). Most oxygen sensors oscillate between 100mv and 900mv, with ~450 indicating that the engine is running at the perfect 14.7:1 fuel/air ratio. If the cat is working correctly it should be relatively steady with much less fluctuation than the upstream sensors. With the homemade one I looked at the live data and it still makes kind of a jagged sine wave ranging from ~350-550mv. A newer car would probably get upset but this was on a '96 beater farm truck and it didn't care. In this case the cat was completely disintegrated and causing a P0420 code, but the flow of exhaust wasn't obstructed.


IMHO if you don't have a P0420/430 code don't worry about it until it gives you a reason to. And try the non-foulers first, that's cheaper and less work.
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Old 05-15-2021, 02:56 AM   #25
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My car has punched cats. The O2 sensor standoffs work. It's very picky and gets fooled by the standoffs. The downstream as SBJ said, should be pretty steady. The upstream will fluctuate a lot with the engine and are used to regulate AFR.
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Old 05-16-2021, 09:39 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by street_rulerr View Post
dont put a cat on it, if you dotn want to. get a spark plug anti-fouler. the front and rear o2 sensors just need to read a delta between them. the anti fouler is just a little spacer that makes the rear read a little less gas so it thinks the cat is working. theyre like 7 bucks for a 2-pack. use both on the rear sensor




https://www.autozone.com/ignition-tu...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
I got the parts and placed them both on the downstream 02. Same issue, truck smells the same and runs the same. It is also still throwing the cylinder 4 misfire code.
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Old 05-16-2021, 10:18 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Morckel View Post
I got the parts and placed them both on the downstream 02. Same issue, truck smells the same and runs the same. It is also still throwing the cylinder 4 misfire code.
You probably have a misfire on Cylinder 4.

Try moving an injector, spark plug, or plug wire from one of the other cylinders.
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Old 05-17-2021, 02:03 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SBJ View Post
For your misfire check that the wires aren't burnt up on the end. I originally went with cheapo no-name wires and every few months the ends would burn up and need to be cut off. It did the exact same thing, popping on deceleration.

Not having a cat won't affect how it runs. Usually you will just have a perpetual P0420 code. Older models don't even monitor cat function.



They also make dummy oxygen sensors that make the ECU think everything is kosher back there. As long as the downstream sensor is still working you can actually get a resistor and a capacitor and make your own (man I miss radioshack). Most oxygen sensors oscillate between 100mv and 900mv, with ~450 indicating that the engine is running at the perfect 14.7:1 fuel/air ratio. If the cat is working correctly it should be relatively steady with much less fluctuation than the upstream sensors. With the homemade one I looked at the live data and it still makes kind of a jagged sine wave ranging from ~350-550mv. A newer car would probably get upset but this was on a '96 beater farm truck and it didn't care. In this case the cat was completely disintegrated and causing a P0420 code, but the flow of exhaust wasn't obstructed.


IMHO if you don't have a P0420/430 code don't worry about it until it gives you a reason to. And try the non-foulers first, that's cheaper and less work.
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Old 05-17-2021, 02:09 AM   #29
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Fuel Trim 0%.

Does this mean no fuel at all? So the injector isn't flowing fuel?
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Old 05-17-2021, 02:33 AM   #30
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I believe that means it's at it's baseline. No extra fuel and it's not pulling fuel.
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