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Old 07-11-2019, 08:56 PM   #1
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Default Replacing alternator on KA24E

I have a 1990 D21 that originally came with a carbureted Z24. I swapped that for a KA24E that came out of a newer D21, but as that engine came without an alternator I moved it over from the old engine since it fit just fine.

Now, that alternator has died after about 240000km. The rectifier has failed (plastic has cracked and one or two diodes are physically broken as a result), and when taking it apart I also noticed one of the brushes was very badly worn as well as it's corresponding slip ring. I have spare brushes, but I haven't been able to find the proper rectifier at a reasonable price (it's about 100 shipped). The alternator is part # 23100-56G00. It has a V-belt pulley, as does the engine (it came without alternator or water pump, but the crankshaft pulley is for V-belt).

Given the broken rectifier being seemingly hard to find and the very worn slip ring (though it might last many years still), I don't know if it's worth fixing, so I'm looking for a replacement. Remanufactured or new units are about 250 here, which seems a bit expensive for my ratty old truck. There are plenty of junkyard units for way less (50-60 or so), but all the ones I've seen are multirib pulleys, or sometimes what looks like two stacked V-belt pulleys (mostly from diesels). A couple of part numbers I've spotted are 23100-47R10 and 23100-77A00.
The connector to the regulator seems the same. The old alternator is 60A, and the ones I've seen are all 60-80A. I wouldn't mind a bigger alternator, and electrically I'm all good with dealing with connectors and cabling. My worry is the pulley.

My general questions around this:

-How far can I go in terms of car/engine models/years and still have the alternator fit? Judging from pictures, everything looks pretty much the same, but what do I know.
-If I get an alternator (that may even have been on a KA24E) with a multirib pulley, will my V-belt pulley fit if I transplant it? Will it end up in the same spot along the axle (so the pulley is in the same plane as the others on the same belt)? Some alternators have a fan between the alternator body and the pulley, and I guess that would add some distance.
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Old 07-11-2019, 09:37 PM   #2
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Hi Jstck,
This is the correct question "-If I get an alternator (that may even have been on a KA24E) with a multirib pulley, will my V-belt pulley fit if I transplant it? Will it end up in the same spot along the axle (so the pulley is in the same plane as the others on the same belt)? Some alternators have a fan between the alternator body and the pulley, and I guess that would add some distance. "

My answer is yes the standard v groove pulley will fit on newer alternators.
I did the Quest swap on my 86. The alternator that I went with was from a 2002 model Nissan Quest(120A vs original 65A). The v groove from my original alternator was the "fan bade" type and did not fit, but the newer single groove v pulley from a 90ish hardbody did fit the quest alternator perfectly. The plugs plugged in perfectly, the charging feed was already upgraded to 4ga, it bolted on with nothing more than a slight modification to the upper mounting bracket.

Here is a good source of information, but it primarily deals with the v6 engine..... But the info is great all the same. http://nissannut.com/projects/alt_upgrade/

The only issue that I had was getting the correct belt due to the difference in case size, and the correct tension due to the larger alternator being a bigger load on that belt. In the end it was not a hassle, just something to be aware of.

Happy upgrading!
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Old 07-12-2019, 01:43 AM   #3
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Don’t fall for one of those high dollar alternators. I’m not sure about the 4 cylinder engines, but the v6 has just enough room for a small upgrade. The problem with the upgrade is it produces more heat and even a mean green alternator usually ends up cooking itself.
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Old 07-12-2019, 07:46 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86.5KC View Post
Hi Jstck,
My answer is yes the standard v groove pulley will fit on newer alternators.
Thanks, that sounds promising. I'll just make a rough "visual check" that things seem to line up. I'll be reusing the V-belt pulley I already have which does not have a fan on it, and if the shoulder it mounts up against is in the same spot it should all fit fine. The newer multirib pulleys I've seen do not have an external fan (which might be a bad idea to remove), so I'm assuming it is internal as it was on my old one.

I already had to mess with the belt lengths as I have had a couple different water pump pulleys on there, if I have to go up or down a step in size that's no big deal. As for case size, there's plenty of room under there and I don't think there's any "stock-sized" alternator that will cause any issues there.

I'm not looking for anything overly large, but something like an 80A would be nice. The EFI stuff will draw a few more amps, and while it's not a whole lot and the 60A alternator (when working) had no problems keeping up, I'd like to get that "power headroom" back. Especially since I have a few Hella lights laying around I want to stick on the roof.
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Old 07-12-2019, 02:42 PM   #5
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there are a couple of websites that cover the alt upgrade. look under the electrical section...

http://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/...ad.php?t=28545
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Old 07-20-2019, 04:06 PM   #6
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Things have been sorted out! While those pages mostly talked about V6 alternators, they looked similar enough and it seemed V-belt <-> multirib pulley transplants were a thing.

I got a JY alternator that had come off an early 90's KA24E Nissan Prairie (I think it was called Axxess in the US), which was cheap enough and seemed reasonable in general (and coming from the same engine it should physically fit). It had a multirib pulley, but the casing looked like it would put the pulley in the right spot and it had the same plug for the field winding. It's part# 23100-47R10, an 80A unit. Cost me about $80 shipped, and seems to be in pretty good condition all things considered.

One thing I knew would be off would be the upper bolt for the tensioner. As the body of the newer alternators are a bit wider, they have moved that hole a bit, so if you have the lower mounting holes at 6 o'clock, the upper one is at 10 rather than 12. They still have the same distance between them though, so while the long hole in the tensioner bracket would sweep the same arc, it is too short. So, while somewhere there has to be a smaller alternator (with "straight-across" mounting holes and V-belt pulley) that fits my engine, I have yet to see one so I decided to modify the bracket to fit what alternators I can find.
I made a jig where I could mark out the arc the tensioner bolt follows (so I could put it in the right spot), cut it off and welded some scrap steel in between, and it turned out pretty well. I was worried it might be too weak being about 75mm longer, but I lengthened the folded "ridge" as well and it seems more than solid enough.

The alternator itself I just cleaned off and changed the pulley out on. By my measurements, it seems the pulley is about 1mm further out from the alternator (as measured from the mounting hole) than the old one, and while I could just grind off some material from the pulley to move it in a bit the difference is small enough that I'd rather leave it where it is. At least I know it's straight, and if I see uneven wear on the belt or something I can fix it later. Given the belt path, 1mm is just a tiny angle and from looking at it you can't see that it's anything other than perfectly straight.

I had to muck about a bit with the electric connections (one of the ring connectors on the cars harness was damaged so I replaced it), but after mounting it and wiring it in it all works fine. I now need a longer belt, I think the old one was 10x925 and I now need 10x940. Even though the tensioner bolt has moved the alternator sort of goes in the same spot. However, it is a bit "fatter" and thus the pulley won't get as close to the block. Anyway, I had an ancient 940mm belt laying around, and while it worked for testing it out it is so dry-rotted I'm not driving anywhere until I get it replaced. It does charge at a solid 14.2V and everything seems generally as it should however, so I'm calling this a win.

Some random pictures. Old alternator:


New alternator (after I moved the pulley over):


Tensioner bracket, before and after welding (and the necessary grinding and painting to make it look like I know what I'm doing). I had to cut some material out of it to make it clear the alternator housing.



Alternator in its natural habitat:
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Old 07-21-2019, 09:08 AM   #7
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Swedes...first they invent dynamite and the Nobel Prize... and then get hold of a good hardbody and fix the thing using brains.

You gotta love 'em. Nice going. Great fix.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jstck View Post
Things have been sorted out! While those pages mostly talked about V6 alternators, they looked similar enough and it seemed V-belt <-> multirib pulley transplants were a thing.

I got a JY alternator that had come off an early 90's KA24E Nissan Prairie (I think it was called Axxess in the US), which was cheap enough and seemed reasonable in general (and coming from the same engine it should physically fit). It had a multirib pulley, but the casing looked like it would put the pulley in the right spot and it had the same plug for the field winding. It's part# 23100-47R10, an 80A unit. Cost me about $80 shipped, and seems to be in pretty good condition all things considered.

One thing I knew would be off would be the upper bolt for the tensioner. As the body of the newer alternators are a bit wider, they have moved that hole a bit, so if you have the lower mounting holes at 6 o'clock, the upper one is at 10 rather than 12. They still have the same distance between them though, so while the long hole in the tensioner bracket would sweep the same arc, it is too short. So, while somewhere there has to be a smaller alternator (with "straight-across" mounting holes and V-belt pulley) that fits my engine, I have yet to see one so I decided to modify the bracket to fit what alternators I can find.
I made a jig where I could mark out the arc the tensioner bolt follows (so I could put it in the right spot), cut it off and welded some scrap steel in between, and it turned out pretty well. I was worried it might be too weak being about 75mm longer, but I lengthened the folded "ridge" as well and it seems more than solid enough.

The alternator itself I just cleaned off and changed the pulley out on. By my measurements, it seems the pulley is about 1mm further out from the alternator (as measured from the mounting hole) than the old one, and while I could just grind off some material from the pulley to move it in a bit the difference is small enough that I'd rather leave it where it is. At least I know it's straight, and if I see uneven wear on the belt or something I can fix it later. Given the belt path, 1mm is just a tiny angle and from looking at it you can't see that it's anything other than perfectly straight.

I had to muck about a bit with the electric connections (one of the ring connectors on the cars harness was damaged so I replaced it), but after mounting it and wiring it in it all works fine. I now need a longer belt, I think the old one was 10x925 and I now need 10x940. Even though the tensioner bolt has moved the alternator sort of goes in the same spot. However, it is a bit "fatter" and thus the pulley won't get as close to the block. Anyway, I had an ancient 940mm belt laying around, and while it worked for testing it out it is so dry-rotted I'm not driving anywhere until I get it replaced. It does charge at a solid 14.2V and everything seems generally as it should however, so I'm calling this a win.

Some random pictures. Old alternator:


New alternator (after I moved the pulley over):


Tensioner bracket, before and after welding (and the necessary grinding and painting to make it look like I know what I'm doing). I had to cut some material out of it to make it clear the alternator housing.



Alternator in its natural habitat:
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Old 07-22-2019, 12:59 PM   #8
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Future reference, 1st gen frontiers with the dual cam KA utilize the same alternator but it is a 70amp vs the stock 60amp .. i have one on my truck and required no modification

Just an FYI
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Old 07-24-2019, 07:42 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XoXSciFiGuy View Post
Swedes...first they invent dynamite and the Nobel Prize... and then get hold of a good hardbody and fix the thing using brains.

You gotta love 'em. Nice going. Great fix.
I guess I haven't shown picture of "the rest of the truck". This is not a vehicle that needs cosmetic finish to be beautiful...

This is what it looked like when I got it (but it was the decent picture I found first). It was all red a few decades ago, but all the body parts have been replaced except for the cab and the drivers side door. There is some need of body panel rust repair (other side is worse...), but the frame is completely sound. Registration document literally says "multi-coloured", and it's probably going to stay that way.


The super clean engine bay after we ripped out the Z24 and put a KA24E in (which was literally done under a tree, using a stout branch to hoist the engine). Engine didn't come with an intake, so it's got the cheapest ricer parts available, as well as an aftermarket ignition coil for a VW.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexg89 View Post
Future reference, 1st gen frontiers with the dual cam KA utilize the same alternator but it is a 70amp vs the stock 60amp .. i have one on my truck and required no modification

Just an FYI
I did look for D22 alternators, but all the ones I could find parts from were diesels. In fact, the only petrol ones I saw were KA24E (might be the KA24DE D22 never was sold here. The diesel alternators might have done just fine, but since that block might just be a bit different and they mostly had a double-belt pulley I wasn't as sure they would fit. And now that I've modified the bracket, I guess I'll stick to that kind of alternator (which seems to be the most common one after all) if I ever need to replace it, which I also hope is not the case.
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Old 07-24-2019, 08:09 AM   #10
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I like that truck, I really do. Multi-colored? So what. It works.

Small thing but I would suggest checking the platform UNDER your battery, see if you can level it up or fix it somehow. Looks like it is making the battery lean to one side.

I like the truck, though. Body panel rust can be fixed. The lack of frame rust is a real good thing.
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