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#11 |
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No crank or cam bolts need to be removed to do a timing belt. You do need to remove the crank pulley bolt with I think is 80ftlbs but I'm probably wrong. Do you have a Chilton's or a copy of the FSM?
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#12 |
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59-65 ft lbs on the cam sprockets, 90-98 ft lbs on the crank pulley.
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#13 |
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Perfect, thank you. I actually just found those on a site about the VG30E motor. Thanks!
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Nobody is going to tell you this but when you put the new belt on, you need to get a 14mm wrench a turn the passenger side cam bolt slightly to make the belt go on easier. Especially when installing the tensioner. I hope this helps someone, I always learn shit the hard way
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#15 |
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And when you install the belt and start setting the tension, use zip ties to hold the belt on the cam gears so the belt wont fly off. Don't forget to remove them.
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Thanks for the tips. One last question, what are the four marks (or notches) on the crankshaft pulley for?
![]() I am assuming the tick marks need to be oriented in a certain position. |
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Starting from the left, those marks represent 0°, 10°, 20°, 30°. You should download the EM section of the FSM and review it carefully before you remove the first bolt. Make sure you understand top dead center, the compression stroke, and all of that before you start.
https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Hardbody/1994/EM.pdf
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Thanks. I have read that document but did not notice anything about those marks. I am assuming I just set the centered pointer on the timing belt cover to the left most (0 degree) mark?
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Yes, and no. It’s not that simple. That mark aligns with the pointer at top dead center on the exhaust stroke and the compression stroke. You need to make sure you’re on the compression stroke of the #1 cylinder.
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#20 |
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