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Old 09-25-2020, 04:22 PM   #1
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Default New head unit. Wire through firewall on 95'

Hey all. I'm installing a new head unit and and trying to figure out the best place to run a wire through the firewall? It all looks pretty tight. Suggestions?
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Old 09-25-2020, 04:47 PM   #2
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If you don't have AC you can use the rubber plugs where the AC lines go through the firewall, if you have AC and truck is an auto trans you can use the rubber where the clutch master goes through. On my former 93 5 speed with AC I drilled a hole to the left of the AC lines:


Can see where I drilled the hole in my pic below:
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Old 09-25-2020, 04:48 PM   #3
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Are you installing just a head unit or? Shouldn't need to got through the firewall just for a head unit, unless it's a high powered one that has a large power wire.
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Old 09-25-2020, 05:05 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahardb0dy View Post
Are you installing just a head unit or? Shouldn't need to got through the firewall just for a head unit, unless it's a high powered one that has a large power wire.



Just a head unit. I got it from Crutchfield (Sony MEX-XB120BT) and they recommended direct to battery wiring.
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Old 09-25-2020, 05:11 PM   #5
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Specs show 4 x 45 RMS if that helps.
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Old 09-25-2020, 05:12 PM   #6
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Mine's an 86.5 so it may be different, but there was a grommet near the brake booster. There's not an actual hole in the firewall there (not sure why the grommet is there) but I pulled the grommet out and drilled through there. I have the wiring for my HU, AC switch, and some other stuff running through that hole.

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Old 09-25-2020, 05:17 PM   #7
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There’s absolutely no need to run a wire directly from the battery.
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Old 09-25-2020, 05:30 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alabama_lowlife View Post
There’s absolutely no need to run a wire directly from the battery.

Maybe I am reading it wrong:


When connecting to the battery directly When the amperage rating of the fuse used on your car is 10 A, make the power connection to the battery directly to avoid short circuits. Despite connecting to the power supply lead of the car, the unit may not fully provide its performance due to insufficient power. In this case, make the power connection to the battery directly. • All power wires connected to the positive battery post should be fused within 450 mm (18 in) of the battery post, and before they pass through any metal. Make sure that the car's battery wires connected to the car (ground (earth) to chassis)* are of a wire gauge at least equal to that of the main power wire connected from the battery to the head unit. During full-power operation, a current of more than 15 A will run through the system. Therefore, make sure that the wires to be connected to the +12 V and GND terminals of this unit are at least 14-Gauge (AWG14)
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Old 09-25-2020, 06:15 PM   #9
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During full power operation is the key phrase. You’re not gonna be cranking it up that much. If you are, you need to get an amp and some decent speakers. They’re covering their asses because yes, technically, at full power it’s more than 10 amps. If it blows the fuse during normal use, then you may want to run a wire to the battery, but I’ve never experienced that to be an issue.
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Old 09-25-2020, 07:54 PM   #10
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4x45w isn't much. At full load it's 15A. That is peak. RMS will be much lower.


The head unit I run is rated for 4x55w and 17w RMS. It runs just fine off the trucks wiring harness.




Wiring harness adapter and let it rip!
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