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Old 09-27-2020, 03:03 PM   #21
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But I guess it’s also easy enough to check the oil pressure. So ill do that first.
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Old 09-27-2020, 05:18 PM   #22
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You are normally not this argumentive, JP. Everything ok?





Just went at looked at my spare motor. The one with the cracked piston. The water pump body does meet the oil pump body on both sides but does not appear to overlap. I am tempted to pull it just to see but I don't have an engine stand and these things weigh around 400lbs.



I was wrong on the braces. There are actually 2 bolts holding the pickup tube in the pan.



Rbourgeo, maybe try a different oil weight. A 5w 30 or a 5w 20 and see if that helps. It shouldn't be on and off ticking. My truck clatters a little for a second or two on startup then goes silent.



Worth a shot with a little detergent. You shouldn't have to run it long before it starts cleaning things out of there is something. I've been told 100 miles or so.



Once you start pulling things apart you'll appreciate the compact design. It really is a good design but it does make complications for some maintenance. I have 2 vehicles like that. I must enjoy torturing myself.
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Old 09-27-2020, 05:35 PM   #23
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Currently using 5w-30. With the way it goes quieter after warm up, I’m thinking maybe. 10w -30 May help.
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Old 09-27-2020, 05:35 PM   #24
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You could very well have 1 or more broken exhaust studs. The exhaust leaks are really similar sounding to tapping lifters. When the exhaust manifolds get hot, they expand and seal up the cracks.

Argumentative today, probably. I've got 3 other issues going on.
  1. On my motorcycle running rough at higher RPM and everyone on that forum keeps telling me over and over to run higher octane and to run my engine at higher speeds. I can't remember how many times I have had to retell those idiots that I'm running 93 octane and that I can't go over 3000 rpm. Then one guy tells me to only use ethanol free gas. Who does that?
  2. On my Low Air Pressure light on the Xterra, I have had 10 people already tell me to check the air pressure. Like I'm some kind of idiot. Yes, the air pressure is 1 PSI over what it says on the door sticker. But they don't read that part. They just want to show everyone what they know (which isn't much)
  3. Here, I keep saying he's probably going to have to take the water pump off, and even provide pictures
It just feels like I'm surrounded by people who are going too fast to get all of the information first.
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Old 09-27-2020, 06:11 PM   #25
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No broken exhaust studs. I know because I was just fixed the one broken exhaust stud and it didn’t fix my issue. Also mechanic stethoscope points to lifter tick.
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Old 09-27-2020, 09:19 PM   #26
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Non eth is amazing. Stupid corn garbage. I used to only run non eth in my truck when I lived in the south.



Low pressure light on the X? I'd guess a bad sender. Happens from time to time. Even the little ford vans at work get all pissed off about tire pressure stuff.



Im stubborn enough to take the pump off my spare motor to show you don't need to do the extra work. There is a seal of sorts but no apparent overlap. If he is in there and close to a timing belt change, do the water pump. Otherwise it's wasting time and glycol.



I have a good long term memory, particularly for mechanical things. I'm 99% sure you don't need to touch the WP. The lowest bolt on the WP and the highest bolt on the OP are almost 2 inches apart. The WP has flanges that go up on each side to help create a pocket to protect the timing belt and have the timing cover seal to. Lotta info on this on NPORA an no mention of a WP when dealing with an OP. Chilton's also have no mention of WP when dealing with OP. It says to remove the timing belt, remove oil pan, remove crank timing sprocket, remove pickup tube and pull the pump off the front.



I got time enough to pull my pump and see. Just no place to put it once it's removed.





Rbourgeo, I hope it is all resolved without pump swaps and whatnot.
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Old 09-27-2020, 09:52 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deerhurst View Post
Low pressure light on the X? I'd guess a bad sender. Happens from time to time. Even the little ford vans at work get all pissed off about tire pressure stuff.
I'd second that diagnosis. If I had to guess I'd say the little button battery inside one of the sensors has died. Those little sensors are only designed to last 7-10 years before that happens. My sister's car had a similar ailment (it's a 2007 and all 4 sensors are dead) and ultimately I just took the instrument cluster apart and put some electrical tape over the light. That probably wouldn't fly where they have safety inspections, though.

I've also seen it where you can make a metal canister out of some pipe (basically a pipe bomb minus the bomb part) and attach an air fitting to it. Then you can go on ebay and buy some cheap chinese TMPS sensors and program them to the car, then put them inside the canister and pressurize it to the desired level. I'd love to try that out someday but I'd need someone to volunteer their vehicle.
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Old 09-27-2020, 10:59 PM   #28
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I've heard the little canister thing working too. Some cars have a sensor in the spare tire so everything on the ground checks out and it's still pissed off because the spare is low.
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Old 09-28-2020, 02:04 AM   #29
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If you have intermittently ticking lifters, and assuming the lifters themselves aren't total trash...you may just have a problem with poor lubrication. Partially blocked oil passages, dirty oil, not changing oil often enough, general engine crap buildup...etc etc.

Try dropping the oil and filter and doing a change. Only THIS time use HyPerLube, a full quart, FIRST into the crankcase, and then fill to the oil line with stock 5W-30 in some high quality brand like Valvoline or Quaker State. It is OKAY to go over the stick by a half quart. Just no more than that.

Then do the same exact thing about a thousand miles later, or maybe even a few hundred. Any crap in those passages will probably go away quick enough.

For the last three years, I have been changing my oil every 2,000 miles with those items I mentioned. Engine is so quiet you can barely hear it now. The idea is to 'wash' the engine clean by using the HyPerLube and regular oil to do it...with the engine as the dishwasher.

I've been using HyPerLube since it was called Hilton's Hyperlube, and I am here to tell you it WORKS. Marvel Mystery Oil is thin crap. STP softens up your seals and causes leaks. Lucas doesn't really work. HyPerLube WORKS.

One thing it does is to leave a full-time honey-like coating on all your engine parts, from the crank bearings to the cam. Guaranteed. This eliminates wear at start up. After the fourth time I did this, (I went a little crazy, since I was doing every 1,000 at first) Then when I would change the oil, I would pull the stick two months later and the oil was still damn near new. I still do it every 2,000 miles which is probably overkill, but that engine with 122,000 on it still starts first kick, runs like new, and makes no noise. Lubed like that, it will probably go ANOTHER 122,000 easy. I don't believe in oil viscosity breakdown, because I don't wait long enough for it to happen. I want full viscosity and lubrication ALL the time, even if it means three superior oil changes a year. (I put about 6,000 a year on the truck)



HyPerLube at Amazon. (You can get it in most parts stores, though.)
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