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Old 07-24-2020, 12:29 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by VOTS95 View Post
I like to sand my drums with 220 wet sandpaper. Soak the paper in some WD40 or similar for about 5 minutes. Then I wrap the paper around a small block of wood and sand in the direction of the drum. It helps remove any glaze or shiny spots in the metal.

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Thanks for the advice! Will use 220
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Old 07-24-2020, 12:41 AM   #22
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PM me if you want to know the fix for the 4R. In short Toy re-designed the seal hence some people have flipped the retainer so the seal rides in the middle instead of near the edge. I also relocated that diff breather/vent up higher


Yeah heard good things about Centric.
Thanks man, it hasn't come back since I replaced the seal. I also checked that the vent is working as it's supposed to be. It maybe goes off road once a year.
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Old 07-24-2020, 10:13 AM   #23
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Ok so here's what I'm going to do, I'm going to pull the drums and see what I have, if it looks cleanable and re-greaseable in place, I will remove the big spring so I can get to the adjuster and remove clean and replace.


IF I decide to do the shoes I'm going to do the hardware and cylinders. Like I said I didn't see any japanese branded cylinders so what brand to get, Centric?


Drums will be sanded down a bit.
Sanding drums with water works. Just dry it out good afterward. If you use WD40, make sure you use brake cleaner on the drum and get all the WD out afterwards.

If you do the wheel cylinders, you can go rebuild kit or Whole New Setup. The rebuild kit works for these trucks. Remember: Always try to use your OEM gear on the truck whenever possible. 'Some' aftermarket stuff is of less quality than what they were cranking out originally in Tennessee.

Remove bottom spring FIRST. Easier than the top spring. Top spring goes back on FIRST. Look, you will be fine. All you have to do is remove both drums at once, and do one side only at a time. If you get stuck, just run over to the other side and look. When you finally get one side installed properly, then IT becomes the reference for the other side.

E-brake: After my install, the e-brake felt okay. I took the truck to a parking lot and ran it in reverse a few times and then put on the brake firmly. This may have done the automatic adjustment, moving the little wheel near the top. The next morning I saw my e-brake was really loose. Many older cars with the automatic brake adjustment wheel did this. I got under the truck and made some adjustments. You probably will have to as well. But that is so easy anyway.

To adjust the e-brake, you seek out the cable running down the center of the truck. It makes a connection where the cable does a Y and each one goes to the e-brake. You will see a couple of nuts, both 12mm. Loosen one, tighten the other, and this tightens the e-brake. Feel the two cables going to the brakes. When they are only slightly loose, you are close. Go up and pull the e-brake and see what it does. If it pulls like it should, and locks where it should, try the brake later in a safe place to see if it actually stops the truck, or at least holds it firmly on a hill. You are good to go.

The OEM adjuster is fine as long as the gears on it look good and sharp. No need to replace it. Shoes, hardware, (pick and choose) wheel cylinders, or rebuild kits for them are your best bet. Two cans of brake cleaner and some DOT3 brake fluid. That might do it.
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Last edited by XoXSciFiGuy; 07-24-2020 at 10:29 AM.
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Old 07-24-2020, 12:03 PM   #24
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Arv Centric is a good brand to go with. I tried to get all the same brand when I did my rears. Centric is what I went with.
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Old 07-25-2020, 05:59 PM   #25
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Arv Centric is a good brand to go with. I tried to get all the same brand when I did my rears. Centric is what I went with.
Thanks! I have the parts in my cart now, shoes, HW, and cylinders. I will pull the drums this weekend while I Pb blaster all fluids fill and drain plugs to prepare for next weekend when i do all the fluids plus tune up!
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Old 07-25-2020, 06:03 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by XoXSciFiGuy View Post
Sanding drums with water works. Just dry it out good afterward. If you use WD40, make sure you use brake cleaner on the drum and get all the WD out afterwards.

If you do the wheel cylinders, you can go rebuild kit or Whole New Setup. The rebuild kit works for these trucks. Remember: Always try to use your OEM gear on the truck whenever possible. 'Some' aftermarket stuff is of less quality than what they were cranking out originally in Tennessee.

Remove bottom spring FIRST. Easier than the top spring. Top spring goes back on FIRST. Look, you will be fine. All you have to do is remove both drums at once, and do one side only at a time. If you get stuck, just run over to the other side and look. When you finally get one side installed properly, then IT becomes the reference for the other side.

E-brake: After my install, the e-brake felt okay. I took the truck to a parking lot and ran it in reverse a few times and then put on the brake firmly. This may have done the automatic adjustment, moving the little wheel near the top. The next morning I saw my e-brake was really loose. Many older cars with the automatic brake adjustment wheel did this. I got under the truck and made some adjustments. You probably will have to as well. But that is so easy anyway.

To adjust the e-brake, you seek out the cable running down the center of the truck. It makes a connection where the cable does a Y and each one goes to the e-brake. You will see a couple of nuts, both 12mm. Loosen one, tighten the other, and this tightens the e-brake. Feel the two cables going to the brakes. When they are only slightly loose, you are close. Go up and pull the e-brake and see what it does. If it pulls like it should, and locks where it should, try the brake later in a safe place to see if it actually stops the truck, or at least holds it firmly on a hill. You are good to go.

The OEM adjuster is fine as long as the gears on it look good and sharp. No need to replace it. Shoes, hardware, (pick and choose) wheel cylinders, or rebuild kits for them are your best bet. Two cans of brake cleaner and some DOT3 brake fluid. That might do it.

Not sure if you use a QUICK BAR CLAMP! These things are great for rear brake jobs. I use them to compress the shoes together so they don't move out when you try to remove the springs and to keep the shoes together when putting the springs in!!!


I also use them to clamp the shoes to the backing plate so you have 2 free hands to put the shoe retainer pin and HW. WORKS GREAT! It's like having 2 extra hands!
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Old 09-26-2020, 11:49 PM   #27
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Update: I went with all Centric: shoes, hardware, and cylinders. Just sanded my OEM drums with foam block sandpaper.


Everything is good except that the new Centric shoe material is THINNER than my 26 yr. old 130K miles OEM pads and I noticed that the pad material was a little offset, not in the same spot on the metal frame.



I do not have experience with other aftermarket brands (regarding material thickness and quality) but I would stay away from CENTRIC 11106310 based on the material thickness.
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Old 09-27-2020, 12:06 AM   #28
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Everything is good except that the new Centric shoe material is THINNER than my 26 yr. old 130K miles OEM pads and I noticed that the pad material was a little offset, not in the same spot on the metal frame.
My guess is that some engineer did a study to show that all that extra material wasn't necessary in 95% of the cases, so he saved the company $X by reducing the material.
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Old 09-27-2020, 12:12 AM   #29
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My guess is that some engineer did a study to show that all that extra material wasn't necessary in 95% of the cases, so he saved the company $X by reducing the material.

Yeah could be. Like I said I don't have experience with other AM shoes and I don't know how long these will last. By the wear that the OEM shoes had in 130K miles you may be right, the reduced material might last long enough. Not sure about heat dissipation/brake fade, whether thinner or thicker material is better but I'm leaning towards thicker is better.
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