Go Back   Infamous Nissan - Hardbody / Frontier Forums > Model Specific > Hardbody Forum (D21)

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-07-2021, 06:44 PM   #1
Hoseman1958
Reggie
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Seymour, TN
Age: 63
Posts: 113
Vehicle: 1993 Nissan D21 4x4 2.4L
Thanks: 39
Thanked 10 Times in 7 Posts
Default The Dreaded Clutch Replacement!

I'm getting a grinding noise sometimes in higher gears when shifting on my 1993 D21 4x4. Was told by a Walmart tire technician months ago that clicking sound made when clutch peddle was depressed was a sign of a bad throwout bearing (that clicking sound has gone away and the clutch peddle depresses normally now.)



This forum helped me do what I thought was an impossible timing chain/scored timing cover replacement earlier this year....and despite the fact that we are in the onset of winter...and I have only a gravel driveway to do this clutch replacement, I have made the decision to move forward with it.



Have looked at the clutch kit being sold on Rock Auto... but it makes no mention of a throwout bearing....only a pilot bearing. I have a neighbor who is really knowledgeable about this type of repair, but he is getting on in years and I would only like to call on his expertise at crucial junctures of the repair....while I do all of the physical stuff underneath the vehicle. Any starting advice about any of this would be most appreciated!
Hoseman1958 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2021, 10:59 PM   #2
XoXSciFiGuy
 
XoXSciFiGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Yakima, WA
Posts: 3,303
Vehicle: 2009 Xterra, 1997 D21 King Cab XE (sold)
Thanks: 232
Thanked 664 Times in 598 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoseman1958 View Post
I'm getting a grinding noise sometimes in higher gears when shifting on my 1993 D21 4x4. Was told by a Walmart tire technician months ago that clicking sound made when clutch peddle was depressed was a sign of a bad throwout bearing (that clicking sound has gone away and the clutch peddle depresses normally now.)

This forum helped me do what I thought was an impossible timing chain/scored timing cover replacement earlier this year....and despite the fact that we are in the onset of winter...and I have only a gravel driveway to do this clutch replacement, I have made the decision to move forward with it.

Have looked at the clutch kit being sold on Rock Auto... but it makes no mention of a throwout bearing....only a pilot bearing. I have a neighbor who is really knowledgeable about this type of repair, but he is getting on in years and I would only like to call on his expertise at crucial junctures of the repair....while I do all of the physical stuff underneath the vehicle. Any starting advice about any of this would be most appreciated!
Well...from experience I can tell you two things. First...replace EVERYTHING if you are going to go down there and pull back the tranny. That means clutch disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing (Looks kinda like a roller skate wheel but bigger), and pilot bushing. Also replace the clutch slave cylinder attached to the side of the tranny.

Now...that gear oil in your tranny costs 25 bucks or so a quart. So when you pull off the tailpiece, the part that goes into the back of the tranny, you should plug up the tail so you lose as little gear oil as possible. I have seen several ways of doing this, but using a heavy duty one gallon Ziploc baggie and a fat rubber band isn't a bad way to do it.

A tranny jack from Harbor Freight will make the whole process easier. Don't say I told you this, but I once bought one, used it after removing it carefully from the box, and cleaned it up good and took it back after I was done. Hey...we were broke that year and Christmas was coming.

The two top bolts on the tranny are the hardest to reach. The rest are pretty easy. You will need an extension and an angle attachment for your socket wrench.

You can re-use the pressure plate bolts and 95% of the time everything will be fine. But if you can afford the six bucks or so per bolt, it is safer to buy new ones. The old ones get stretched and stressed a bit when they were originally installed. Sometimes I have bought new ones, sometimes I used the old ones. Never did they fail either way, so meh....whatever I guess. But they have been known to fail occasionally if you reuse them.

IMPORTANT: When you pull the driveline out from the back of the transmission, use white paint and a tiny brush, or a marker, or WHATEVER and matchmark both the driveline and the back of the tranny...so that your driveline goes back in later in the same spot.

If you don't do this, those weights welded to your driveline will now be in the wrong spot...and you can get vibration back there that will drive you nuts. So one way OUT....same way back IN.
__________________

2009 Xterra, 4.0 liter, automatic, 4WD. Need a technical manual? Drop me a message. Chilton's for amateurs.
XoXSciFiGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Thanked by:
89'HBV6 (11-08-2021), Hoseman1958 (11-08-2021)
Old 11-08-2021, 01:40 AM   #3
VOTS95
 
VOTS95's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 550
Vehicle: 95 XE V6 3.3L Swap 4x4 5 Sp
Thanks: 70
Thanked 162 Times in 124 Posts
Default

I’ll assume you’ve checked your transmission fluid is topped off and it’s a genuine GL4 not just GL4 compatible. Any chance your clutch master/slave cylinder could be going out. Have you bled your clutch hydraulics lately? Have you bypassed the clutch dampener?

Redline MT90 is available for $18 on Amazon with free shipping.

If you buy the clutch kit, it should have a throw-out bearing in it. Just read the product list on the rock auto website to be sure. Replace the rear-main seal on the engine if you do the clutch.

VOTS
VOTS95 is offline   Reply With Quote
Thanked by:
Hoseman1958 (11-08-2021)
Old 11-08-2021, 06:34 AM   #4
Hoseman1958
Reggie
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Seymour, TN
Age: 63
Posts: 113
Vehicle: 1993 Nissan D21 4x4 2.4L
Thanks: 39
Thanked 10 Times in 7 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by XoXSciFiGuy View Post
Well...from experience I can tell you two things. First...replace EVERYTHING if you are going to go down there and pull back the tranny. That means clutch disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing (Looks kinda like a roller skate wheel but bigger), and pilot bushing. Also replace the clutch slave cylinder attached to the side of the tranny.

Now...that gear oil in your tranny costs 25 bucks or so a quart. So when you pull off the tailpiece, the part that goes into the back of the tranny, you should plug up the tail so you lose as little gear oil as possible. I have seen several ways of doing this, but using a heavy duty one gallon Ziploc baggie and a fat rubber band isn't a bad way to do it.

A tranny jack from Harbor Freight will make the whole process easier. Don't say I told you this, but I once bought one, used it after removing it carefully from the box, and cleaned it up good and took it back after I was done. Hey...we were broke that year and Christmas was coming.

The two top bolts on the tranny are the hardest to reach. The rest are pretty easy. You will need an extension and an angle attachment for your socket wrench.

You can re-use the pressure plate bolts and 95% of the time everything will be fine. But if you can afford the six bucks or so per bolt, it is safer to buy new ones. The old ones get stretched and stressed a bit when they were originally installed. Sometimes I have bought new ones, sometimes I used the old ones. Never did they fail either way, so meh....whatever I guess. But they have been known to fail occasionally if you reuse them.

IMPORTANT: When you pull the driveline out from the back of the transmission, use white paint and a tiny brush, or a marker, or WHATEVER and matchmark both the driveline and the back of the tranny...so that your driveline goes back in later in the same spot.

If you don't do this, those weights welded to your driveline will now be in the wrong spot...and you can get vibration back there that will drive you nuts. So one way OUT....same way back IN.

SciFi - thanks much for this detailed reply. The terminology alone will be useful so that I can ask better questions when I get into the thick of it.
Hoseman1958 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2021, 06:45 AM   #5
Hoseman1958
Reggie
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Seymour, TN
Age: 63
Posts: 113
Vehicle: 1993 Nissan D21 4x4 2.4L
Thanks: 39
Thanked 10 Times in 7 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by VOTS95 View Post
Iíll assume youíve checked your transmission fluid is topped off and itís a genuine GL4 not just GL4 compatible. Any chance your clutch master/slave cylinder could be going out. Have you bled your clutch hydraulics lately? Have you bypassed the clutch dampener?

Redline MT90 is available for $18 on Amazon with free shipping.

If you buy the clutch kit, it should have a throw-out bearing in it. Just read the product list on the rock auto website to be sure. Replace the rear-main seal on the engine if you do the clutch.

VOTS

I put new Redline MT90 in less than 5K miles ago. Right after that, I had some instances where my clutch pedal would literally drop straight to the floor when I touched it on a cold day. A friend pointed out that the fluid level in my Clutch Master cylinder was way low. I filled it up and the problem was solved. But no, I have not done anything with Master/Slave cylinder. Would this be reason to buy my clutch parts "piecemeal?" In other words, should I attempt the Master/Slave cylinder/bleed process first to see if anything changes?


The clutch and the truck in general are still working pretty well, but I have noticed the brief slipping @ 3 or 4 times now. Usually when going into 2nd gear at low speed, but once - when starting out in reverse. Also.....need to ask about trying to move a load of firewood about 50 feet on slight uphill grade so that I can load it onto my porch. Will all of that extra weight over such a short distance aggravate the clutch slipping problem?
Hoseman1958 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2021, 08:04 PM   #6
D21-1995
 
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 11
Vehicle: 1995 Nissan D21
Thanks: 1
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoseman1958 View Post
SciFi - thanks much for this detailed reply. The terminology alone will be useful so that I can ask better questions when I get into the thick of it.

You going to do it in the White Star parking lot across from the high school?
D21-1995 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2021, 04:00 AM   #7
XoXSciFiGuy
 
XoXSciFiGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Yakima, WA
Posts: 3,303
Vehicle: 2009 Xterra, 1997 D21 King Cab XE (sold)
Thanks: 232
Thanked 664 Times in 598 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoseman1958 View Post
I put new Redline MT90 in less than 5K miles ago. Right after that, I had some instances where my clutch pedal would literally drop straight to the floor when I touched it on a cold day. A friend pointed out that the fluid level in my Clutch Master cylinder was way low. I filled it up and the problem was solved. But no, I have not done anything with Master/Slave cylinder. Would this be reason to buy my clutch parts "piecemeal?" In other words, should I attempt the Master/Slave cylinder/bleed process first to see if anything changes?


The clutch and the truck in general are still working pretty well, but I have noticed the brief slipping @ 3 or 4 times now. Usually when going into 2nd gear at low speed, but once - when starting out in reverse. Also.....need to ask about trying to move a load of firewood about 50 feet on slight uphill grade so that I can load it onto my porch. Will all of that extra weight over such a short distance aggravate the clutch slipping problem?
Ha. I towed a 1200 pound trailer full of heavy camping gear and a generator ten miles off road...and back...on my trip to Mt Rainier last summer. And the truck was packed under the canopy and in the cab as well.
__________________

2009 Xterra, 4.0 liter, automatic, 4WD. Need a technical manual? Drop me a message. Chilton's for amateurs.
XoXSciFiGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2021, 04:06 AM   #8
XoXSciFiGuy
 
XoXSciFiGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Yakima, WA
Posts: 3,303
Vehicle: 2009 Xterra, 1997 D21 King Cab XE (sold)
Thanks: 232
Thanked 664 Times in 598 Posts
Default

Vot says:
'Replace the rear-main seal on the engine if you do the clutch...'

Yeah, I forgot about that. Costs less than ten bucks. Always do that. Might as well. It is cheap insurance.
__________________

2009 Xterra, 4.0 liter, automatic, 4WD. Need a technical manual? Drop me a message. Chilton's for amateurs.
XoXSciFiGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2021, 07:36 AM   #9
Hoseman1958
Reggie
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Seymour, TN
Age: 63
Posts: 113
Vehicle: 1993 Nissan D21 4x4 2.4L
Thanks: 39
Thanked 10 Times in 7 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by D21-1995 View Post
You going to do it in the White Star parking lot across from the high school?

Hah.....nope, I'm gonna do in my driveway up on the side of Bluff Mountain!
Hoseman1958 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2021, 07:52 AM   #10
Hoseman1958
Reggie
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Seymour, TN
Age: 63
Posts: 113
Vehicle: 1993 Nissan D21 4x4 2.4L
Thanks: 39
Thanked 10 Times in 7 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by XoXSciFiGuy View Post
Ha. I towed a 1200 pound trailer full of heavy camping gear and a generator ten miles off road...and back...on my trip to Mt Rainier last summer. And the truck was packed under the canopy and in the cab as well.

SciFi - I'm not clear if you meant that you did that tow when your clutch was starting to slip. I have another old Nissan Quest in which I just "crushed" the heater blower relay trying to pull it to test.....so, no heat in that vehicle for a while (its like the base of the relay is stuck on with super glue....but I made damn sure that there is going to be no way to get if off now.)



I bought some bikes for my Grandkids for Christmas and intended to haul them up to Asheville area (100 miles each way, up and down the mountains) in my truck to drop off with my Son . Do you reckon I could attempt it before I start this clutch job?
Hoseman1958 is offline   Reply With Quote
Thanked by:
Datsunbox (11-18-2021)
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 04:49 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.