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Old 10-28-2018, 07:44 PM   #31
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I think the plan you have right now is a good next step, with the exception that I would take the opportunity to install one of the shims that Mr. Jim from YouTube sells. Either that or find some way to add length to the the tensioner. If you have access to a welder maybe you could tack weld a thick washer to the end of the tensioner piston.

I couldn’t keep a timing chain guide on my 97 4x4. I bought it with 160k, sold it with 220k, and I did the timing chain 3-4 times. I dropped the oil pan after the 2nd or 3rd time because I knew there were several timing chain guides down in the sump. Once I got the pan off I could see that although there were several parts and pieces of guides in there, they did not appear to be a threat to cause harm. I cleaned the oil passages really good that time using brake parts cleaner.

I don’t think it’s necessary to remove the water pump in your case, it’s pretty much new.

This part is pure speculation on my part. It’s based on an observation I made when I did the chain on the 2wd 94 I had back in the spring. When I used the screwdriver and impact to prime the oil system I noticed that oil leaked between the tensioner and the block. Maybe it’s designed to do that? Maybe not? I don’t know. At that time I wondered if it would be a good idea to apply a light coat of sealer to the mating surfaces between the tensioner and the block, being careful not to get any extra that might clog the passages. Maybe that leaking is a problem? I don’t know, that the speculation part.
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Old 10-28-2018, 07:57 PM   #32
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I guess I probably should have gotten a shim for the tensioner, but it is too late now. If this does not work, I will try one later. I mentioned that to my engine teacher and he showed me a tensioner from another Nissan engine (not sure what) that has a ratcheting tensioner. That would be great. Either way it should work with just the normal tensioner. It worked just fine for the first 198,000 miles.
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Old 10-29-2018, 01:16 AM   #33
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I have spent a lot of time cleaning gasket surfaces very well. I have also blown air and carb cleaner (ran out of brake clean) through the oil ports in the front of the engine and also back through from the oil filter adapter. When I spray carb cleaner through the port behind the tensioner, it sprays back at me and drools out of the oil filter adapter. The straw nozzle on the carb cleaner goes about 2 in and stops at what I hope is a corner (not an obstruction). I can feel the air blowing going both ways through the ports. I can not think of anything else to do at this point. I guess I will start to put things back together.
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Old 11-11-2018, 08:17 PM   #34
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I have everything back together, and have not had time to mess with it until now. My truck will not start. I am positive that it has nothing to do with the timing chain. It is a a no start no crank issue that I have dealt with previously when the chain was not rattling. There is a bad connector after the relay that had power going to the starter. It was a poor connection so I cut it and soldered the wire. I did not do a very good job, and it is not working anymore.

My question is, shouldn't I be able to use a jumper wire from the battery straight from the starter to start the truck. I am pretty sure I did that before. When I try it now the starter motor spins but does not engage. I also put power to the other stud on the starter solenoid just to make sure and it did nothing.
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Old 11-12-2018, 12:45 AM   #35
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When my truck wouldn't turn over we wound up just having to replace the relay. Not sure if you have the same issue with it, but that's what worked in my experience.
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Old 11-12-2018, 01:15 AM   #36
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I think the relay is good because I can hear it clicking. I actually tested it last time I had this issue.
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Old 11-12-2018, 01:30 AM   #37
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Check the large contacts at the starter and the battery for security and corrosion. You should be able to run a jumper wire from the battery to the small wire on the solenoid and make the truck start. You should be extremely careful when doing this to make sure the truck is in neutral, the parking brake is set and all that stuff. Running a jumper wire to try to start it bypasses every safety measure that’s on the truck. Try tapping the starter with a hammer to see if that helps it engage. If that doesn’t do it, I’d suspect the starter is bad.
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Old 11-14-2018, 08:54 AM   #38
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If starter is spinning but not engaging the flywheel, this means the starter gear arm is not moving to engage the flywheel. You should buy a new starter with the factory pigtail already attached and install that instead. Your solenoid is not making your starter gear engage the flywheel. Either you have the wrong starter installed, or your solenoid on top is crap.

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