Aftermarket lifters?

[Deerhurst]

You gotta drop the pan for oil pump. Pan seals on it. To get to the pickup and remove it from the pump you have to drop the pan. the bolts are from the pan side


Water pump is belt driven. Oil pump slide over the crank.

[jp2code]

Whatever, deerhurst. Apparently my explanation isn't making sense to you.

[rbourgeo]

Pretty sure deerhurst is right...no way to remove the oil pump without removing the pan.

[Deerhurst]

Originally Posted by jp2code

Whatever, deerhurst. Apparently my explanation isn't making sense to you.

No, it doesn't. Water pump has nothing to do with the oiling system and sits mid motor, nowhere near the pan. I'd have to go look at my spare motor and see how the water pump sits but I do highly doubt it sits over the oil pump as there is no reason for the two to interface. No water goes through the oil pump. Water pump has the fan mounted to it's driving shaft



To do either pump you still have to pull the timing belt and timing covers. To do oil pump you have to pull the crank sprocket. Thankfully this is keyed so alignment isn't a problem. From there you must drop the pan and remove the 2 bolts holding the pickup tube and, I believe, there is a bolt holding a brace for the pickup tube and you can get the pickup tube out of the way. Then unbolt the oil pump and pull it off the front of the motor over the crank. I can take photos of this tomorrow. My spare motor doesn't have an oil pan on it.



I've never had to do it but spent quite a bit of time over exploded drawings from the Z car guys and in shop manuals since I was tempted to replace the pump in my VG33 when I did the swap. I spent plenty an hour staring at the crank cradle. Stupid RTV gaskets.

[Deerhurst]

Double post.





IMHO, check your oil pressure then maybe run a little solvent through the system if everything checks out. ATF is a powerful solvent. I've used Rislone but my engines have always been spotless.



For your guage, the oil pressure sender port by the oil filter is BSPT, not NPT. I believe it is 1/8 BSPT.

[XoXSciFiGuy]

Originally Posted by rbourgeo

Anyone try any of the aftermarket lifters on RockAuto?

Lifter noise on driver side bank of VG30E until engine is warm.

The Hitachis OEM are pretty expensive....

I hear the risk with the aftermarket parts is the metal used?

Alternatively, anyone have any luck removing and cleaning their current ones?

I have read the previous posts...as well as your question. How do you have a V6 in a 96 truck? Have to ask.

How about a possible fix that is far less expensive? Go to Amazon and purchase a complete timing chain kit, the one that comes with a brand new oil and water pump?

Drop your oil pan, remove the valve cover. Remove the front timing chain cover and change everything out. Make SURE you oil that chain good before you install...and make sure that oil pump has oil IN IT when you install it.

While you have the pan removed, check the pump screen and clean it.

Let's suppose you do all this and everything is back together. When you fill up your oil, use one quart of HyPerLube in the crankcase first, and then fill the rest to the top of the stick with the stock recommended weight of oil. HyPerLube is great at freeing sticky lifters. I have used it for many years. Unlike some of the other oil additives, it actually WORKS.

After the first 1,000 miles...dump the oil and change it with the same stuff again.

After ANOTHER 2,000 miles...do it again. Then do this every 3,000 miles afterward. Eventually your engine will be clean as a whistle and valve train noise will be almost non-existent. The only exception is if you really DO have just plain BAD LIFTERS, and in that case no guarantees.

[jp2code]

Oh my god, people! I never said you can remove the oil pump without dropping the oil pan. What I'm saying and trying to show with pictures is that you cannot remove the oil pump without taking the water pump off because they are connected.

Go back and look at those pictures I posted again. The water pump sits right on top of the oil pump on the VG engine.

Originally Posted by XoXSciFiGuy

I have read the previous posts...as well as your question. How do you have a V6 in a 96 truck? Have to ask.

That was brought up in this post:

New vg30E crankshaft seal doesn’t fit?

In summary, he's in Canada. The engine in his truck matches his VIN. Canada must have put some V6 engines in trucks in 1996.

[nunya]

I admit that my 2 cents is overpriced. In the late 80s I had been taught that low oil pressure comes from excessive wear on the "babbets", otherwise known as crank bearings. Having said that I also notice that there is very little discussion about lower end work being done to the Nissan engines. All those years ago I assisted an old dude in resizing, replacing the babbets on his 70s Chevy work horse. It was in an unheated garage in 10 degree weather. Plastigauge and patience, small nips of vodka made it bearable.

[jp2code]

Take a look at this picture from the Service Manual:



Yup. Textbook says all you have to do is drop the oil pan.

But, how do you plan to slide that oil pump off of the crank unless you take the harmonic balancer, timing belt, and water pump off?

[rbourgeo]

Yeah, V6 4x4.

Understood- water pump needs to come off when in order to remove the oil pump as it partly covers it.


My concern is that while it only ticks at start up, it also does it rhymically. It will tick for 5 seconds, then no tick for a few second, then tick again for 5 seconds, then not tick for a few seconds, over and over, until the engine is relatively warm, then it’s good. Possible that it just the lifter is leaking, but once oil is fully warm and up to its 30Viscocity it’s able to hold it?

Or is this mental gymnastics?

I might just try some more detergents mentioned above. May as well try the cheap and easy first.

I like this truck, but having to drop the front diff and etc to just get the pan off seems like a rediculous design.