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Old 04-12-2014, 04:05 AM   #1
justadodgeman
 
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Default are these timing marks about right?

its a 94 d21 ka24e. these pics were taken at tdc on #1 cylinder. im wondering because I just rebuilt this engine and am planning on cranking it up tomorrow but wanna make sure I got this right. oh and I the dot on the end of the distributor shaft supposed to line up with the "D" on the other shaft or something?

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Old 04-12-2014, 04:19 AM   #2
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Distributor will only fit in one position. Your distributor timing is dependent on if you aligned the oil pump shaft correctly. If you did not install the shaft correctly aligned the distributor will never fall into proper alignment and you will not get proper ignition spark timing.
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Old 04-12-2014, 04:25 AM   #3
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When you installed your oil pump you should have placed the engine at #1 TDC, and made a mark prior to removing the oil pump that shows the alignment of the tip of the pump shaft. You would need the "D" shaped end of the shaft to line back up with your scribe mark to know it was back where it was.

Also, with the engine at TDC your harmonic balancer tick marks would have lined up with the pointer on the timing cover.

Sort of like this image here:

http://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/...23&postcount=9
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Old 04-12-2014, 01:38 PM   #4
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Right now you have the pointer lined up with the 5 degrees BTDC mark on the crank pulley. The second mark from the left is 0 degrees TDC. Like in this picture. The grove painted white is 0.


Rotate the crank over to 0 and make sure you have the #1 cylinder on the compression stroke. All valves will be closed on the #1. Make sure the exhaust valve is not open, this would happen on the exhaust stroke and the piston would be at TDC.

With the engine set to TDC on the compression stroke, the spindle should look like this. Slightly To the left of 12 o clock. You can then drop the distributor in and see if the rotor will point to the #1 cylinder spark plug. If it's not lined up on the #1 spark plug wire and you can't rotate the distributor enough to line it up with distributor mounting bolts installed, it won't be able to fire at the right time. These pictures are from a 97 KA24E. I believe that the location of the plug wires and the clocking of the distributor is slightly different on the 96-97. If I recall correctly, the rotor will point more aft than mine as the #1 plug wire is slightly closer to 2 or 3 o'clock on the earlier trucks. Either way, as long as the prior steps are correct and the rotor points to the #1 plug wire, you're good.



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Old 04-12-2014, 01:58 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alabama_lowlife View Post
Right now you have the pointer lined up with the 5 degrees BTDC mark on the crank pulley. The second mark from the left is 0 degrees TDC. Like in this picture. The grove painted white is 0.


Rotate the crank over to 0 and make sure you have the #1 cylinder on the compression stroke. All valves will be closed on the #1. Make sure the exhaust valve is not open, this would happen on the exhaust stroke and the piston would be at TDC.

With the engine set to TDC on the compression stroke, the spindle should look like this. Slightly To the left of 12 o clock. You can then drop the distributor in and see if the rotor will point to the #1 cylinder spark plug. If it's not lined up on the #1 spark plug wire and you can't rotate the distributor enough to line it up with distributor mounting bolts installed, it won't be able to fire at the right time. These pictures are from a 97 KA24E. I believe that the location of the plug wires and the clocking of the distributor is slightly different on the 96-97. If I recall correctly, the rotor will point more aft than mine as the #1 plug wire is slightly closer to 2 or 3 o'clock on the earlier trucks. Either way, as long as the prior steps are correct and the rotor points to the #1 plug wire, you're good.



is there anyway I can check to make sure the cam and crankshaft are in time cause my dumba@# didn't line up chain links to timing marks I just put both keyways up to 12 oclock and put the chain on and made sure it stayed like that so would that be good or not
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Old 04-12-2014, 03:43 PM   #6
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You will have to put everything back to TDC. #1 cylinder on compression stroke, balancer mark at 0* tick mark, pull the valve cover and check the camshaft alignment marks.

If it is not in time you will have to do this crap all over again and get it in time.
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Old 04-12-2014, 04:22 PM   #7
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Take the timing cover off and start over. You don't want to risk valves hitting pistons to save an hour or two. Lots of time and money involved if it's wrong.
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Old 06-30-2014, 03:41 PM   #8
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I changed my timing chain last weekend... this was the hardest part to line up the shaft between the oil pump and the distributor... if it's even 1 teeth off... the car will NOT start... My 15 year old daughter had to help me to hold it still while I put the pump on... Once that is correct it is a standard tuning with a timing light...
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Old 01-07-2021, 12:46 AM   #9
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Alabama made a huge write up about timing chain replacement. It's a great one:
http://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/...ad.php?t=33948


I have 0 compression on all 4 of my cylinders. I haven't done a leak down test yet as I'm not sure I need to. When I hand crank the car, it is not easy. The starter cranks at normal speeds as well. It is not faster than normal.

I believe my cam shaft is out of sync like I may have jumped a few teeth. This would indicate that a valve may be bent or broken, or all. Can anyone give me some pointers?

Here's the back story:
I was driving around town, not very far and it smelled a little like burning or just being hot. On my way home I noticed the car was heating up temp and I started seeing smoke coming from under the hood when stopped. I pulled into a gas station and bought some water and poured it immediately into my radiator. Once I got home (1-2 miles) I made sure to properly fill up the radiator with as much water as it could hold. I gave the truck about 3 hours to rest and drove about 2 miles when the acceleration would bog down, exhaust was loud and sounded funny, and power was diminishing. It very quickly went very south and died. Would not start and shook hard as if it was misfiring or running on 1 or 3 cylinders.

I took it apart and replaced the head gasket. One of the valves was slightly opened when the head was off but I attributed that to turning the cam shaft when freeing the cam sprocket. I took a wire wheel on a drill and tried to clean as much soot as possible off the valves and top of the combustion chamber. I did make sure to avoid the valve that was slightly opened. I took brake cleaner and cleaned down the piston heads and walls (I probably stripped the chamber of any oil).

Forgot to mention, the right side chain tensioner was completely shattered, there was nothing.

New exhause gasket, new intake manifold gasket, new intake gasket, new head gasket, new EGR valve. New right side chain tensioner.

Now when I crank I get no start, and compression tests come back 0 for all cylinders. I'm looking at the image on page 12 section EM of the Nissan Truck Model D21 series PDF and my crank sprocket key doesn't line up in same rotation as the cam sprocket key like in the picture.

I'm thinking maybe I jumped some teeth and I'm not getting any pressure reading because a valve is opening at the wrong time. This would also indicate that I would have a bent/broken valve. I think there is compression though because it is not easy to crank by hand and the starter isn't spinning away super fast.

Anyone got any ideas for me? Sorry this thread is so old.
I was wondering if I could, while crank pulley is at TDC, rotate the cam off the chain and reinstall to get those *slipped sprocket teeth back to correct.

Last edited by essaysee; 01-07-2021 at 12:51 AM.
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Old 01-07-2021, 01:45 AM   #10
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Set the #1 piston to TDC. Remove the spark plug and use a wooden dowel, screwdriver, or similar to physically verify that the piston is at the top. Look at the valves one the #1 cylinder. You should be on either the compression stroke with all valves closed, or on the exhaust stroke with both intake valves closed and the exhaust valve open. Where is the keyway on the camshaft at this point?
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