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Old 01-05-2019, 07:03 PM   #1
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Default KA24E Timing cover: 6 RTV, gasket and grease questions

Hello all, I have six questions related to RTV and gaskets when doing the timing chain ...

1.) I have read several threads on this forum where people say it's better to use a gasket on the oil pan instead of RTV. I think one does not use both, right? I bought a Felpro oil pan gasket and I think I should not use RTV and this gasket but wanted to be sure.

2.) I think everyone uses RTV on the timing cover. As mentioned, I know people often prefer gaskets for the oil pan but I don't think there is such an alternative for the KA24E timing cover. So, is everyone using RTV on their timing cover and if so, what RTV specifically? I see there are different types and I want to be sure I use the right one.

3.) The service manual says to "apply lithium grease to the sealing lip of crankshaft oil seal". Is white lithium grease the same thing as "lithium grease"? I have tried to find plain lithium grease but it seems like all that is for sale is "white lithium grease".

4.) I have read about people priming the oil pump with petroleum jelly. Is that a good idea? I think just fill the pump up with oil and then smear a little on to keep the oil inside the pump while I try to get it mounted again is the right process of priming, is that right? Is there any special petroleum jelly or just any petroleum jelly I find at the store?

5.) I should not use any RTV where the timing cover meets the head gasket, right?

6.) Any tips on getting the cover off without tearing the head gasket?

As always, thank you.
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Old 01-05-2019, 07:48 PM   #2
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1. The main reason you want to pull the oil pan down is because if you undo the front bolts and pry down on it then stuff in some more RTV it usually leaks afterwards. I use the same oil pan gasket and I like to paint them with #3 aviation sealant before installing (it's that nasty brown goop that sticks to everything). If there's anything you want to spend lots of time on it's cleaning the mating surfaces. This goes for the timing cover as well.

2. I've always used the black stuff for the timing cover. I don't think there is an aftermarket gasket available for these...every front timing cover gasket set I have bought for these comes with the front crank seal and the oil tube seals/oil pump gasket/distributor o-ring and a couple tubes of black RTV. It's best if you can let it sit overnight before pouring coolant in. All those other seals should be replaced at the same time.

3. Engine oil will be fine. Just get a little bit on your finger and run it around the sealing lip. Maybe get some on the crank snout too. This is so that you don't tear it upon install. Also, replace the seal when the timing cover is off the vehicle, lots easier that way.

4. If you are replacing the oil pump put some oil in it then take a screwdriver and rotate the shaft counterclockwise until oil starts coming out the other end. Otherwise, once it's all back together pull the coil wire and/or EFI fuse and crank the engine over for 20-30 seconds to prime it up. The timing cover gasket set should come with a new oil pump gasket.

5. I used a little bit but don't go overboard. These things like to leak right at the "T" where the head gasket, timing cover and engine block all come together.

6. Don't pry down from the top. Ever. Period. Also remember there are 4 10mm bolts that bolt the head to the timing cover in addition to the regular timing cover bolts. Two of them are right in front but the other two are off to the side and are easy to forget about. There are two locating dowels that the timing cover sits on, so the only way to pry is straight out. This is another reason why removing the oil pan is a good idea...you can push out from the bottom. If it's never been off it's going to be stuck on there like nobody's business. Be patient with it and remember NO HAMMERS. Once you start seeing a little bead of coolant running down the inside of the timing cover you have broken the seal. Just be patient with it, eventually it will come out.

And also, before you begin...after you have the engine at TDC pull the distributor cap off and make marks on the rotor and the body of the distributor. Getting the distributor back on in the correct position is something a lot of people struggle with on this job and this will help a lot when you go to put it back together. You will want to put the oil pump on AFTER you get the distributor on the right position. The pump isn't timed or anything so you can rotate the shaft with a screwdriver until it lines up with the bottom of the distributor shaft.

Last edited by SBJ; 01-05-2019 at 07:53 PM.
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Old 01-05-2019, 08:43 PM   #3
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SBJ pretty much covered everything.
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Old 01-05-2019, 09:15 PM   #4
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awesome, that's all very clear and helpful, thank you.

When you say "black RTV", is this what you mean? https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8218...ords=black+rtv

This is the aviation #3? https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8001...iation+sealant

Do you loctite any of the bolts?

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Old 01-05-2019, 09:54 PM   #5
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That’s the black RTV I use. I don’t use a s loctite.
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Old 01-05-2019, 10:28 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevechristmas View Post
That's the stuff. Any auto parts store should have it.
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Old 01-07-2019, 05:30 AM   #7
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I actually did this last week and I used this ($15 bucks at Nissan and worked perfect, only needed the one tube for my oil pan and timing cover):
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Old 01-07-2019, 05:54 AM   #8
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Oh man. Getting all fancy on us.
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Old 01-07-2019, 11:49 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SBJ View Post
Oh man. Getting all fancy on us.
Yeah what can I say, I really know how to splurge
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Really!? Royal Blue Pearl? Should’ve just called it purple!
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Old 01-08-2019, 02:42 AM   #10
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Funny thing is I probably have at least $15 worth of half-empty tubes of RTV lying around lol.
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