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Old 06-29-2020, 07:49 AM   #1
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Cool 90 Hardbody Charging System - New Alternator, New Battery - No light

Hello. My first post...I have a 1990 Nissan D21. I'm having a charging issue with my lil truck. This is what happened...For about a week, my lil truck would scream (belt noise) when I would take off. Then had problems with A/C. Worked great, then nothing. Checked fuses. Took one out, put it back and it worked. Then while driving, I lost my stereo, the A/C power. Parked it and then it wouldn't start. I had just ran two errands that day. On second errand, it sounded tired when it started. I checked the belt tension. (Belt was replaced by shop about three months ago. Starter was replaced about 2 months ago.) I checked the battery volts with voltmeter. It was 10.64. Charged battery. No start. Jumped truck from my son's Mustang. Stayed charged while my foot was on gas, soon as I took foot off, it died. Jumped it again. It started. Stayed on only with foot on gas, about 7 mins. Took negative off while running- died. The light doesn't come on in the gauge area now. Replaced alternator and battery. It starts but wont hold the charge. It is like energy gets to alternator but doesn't come back into battery. I've been watching Youtube videos and reading but I'm at a loss. Do any of you folks know what's going on or where to check next? I would be totally stoked. Thanks in advance. - Victoria (MetroFox805)
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Old 06-29-2020, 10:08 AM   #2
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Check the fusible links at the battery. They’re similar to fuses in that they protect the vehicle wiring. If the black one is burned up it will prevent the alternator from charging the battery.

Does the battery light come on with the ignition switch placed in the ON position and then go off when the truck is cranked?
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Old 06-29-2020, 01:23 PM   #3
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Took negative off while running- died.

This is not a test !!! This is a way to ruin electronic stuff !!!


A way to test is with everything connected and engine running, and measure voltage across battery terminals at like 2000 rpm; should read about 13.5 to 14.5 volts.
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Old 06-29-2020, 09:37 PM   #4
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Yeah that is a good way to cause an electrical surge that can smoke electrical components.
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Old 06-29-2020, 10:23 PM   #5
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Thank you so much for your reply. I will check those. Would you suggest buying them from salvage yard or new, online?
Would you happen to know, roughly, what these items might cost? Just so I have a fair place to start.
Thanks again, V
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Old 06-29-2020, 10:25 PM   #6
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Thank you so much for that information. I hope I didn't wreck myself! So much to learn. Very daunting.
Enjoy your day, V
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Old 06-29-2020, 10:28 PM   #7
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Thank you so much for that much needed information. I am hoping that I haven't caused more damage. I'm checking the fusible links, in a jiff. Engines are pretty overwhelming to me thus far.
Enjoy your day, V
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Old 06-29-2020, 10:29 PM   #8
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In answer to your question, No the batt light does not come on.
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Old 06-30-2020, 01:26 AM   #9
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In answer to your question, No the batt light does not come on.
In order for the alternator to charge, the battery light must illuminate with the ignition switch ON. Then it should go off when the truck is running to indicate that the alternator is charging.

The power to illuminate the light comes from the 10A fuse on the top right of the fuse box. Check this fuse then check to see if the light works. If not, check the yellow/black wire at the alternator for 12vdc. If you have power on that wire to the alternator then check the ground for the alternator. If all of that checks good you may have a bad alternator.
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Old 06-30-2020, 06:28 AM   #10
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Default im going throught this same issue currently please help

i have a new alt and new battery, all fuses are good and the battery light does come on in key on position and go off when truck is running but 2 seperate multimeters say i only have the initial 12.54 volts my battery has both running and engine off
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