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Old 07-29-2020, 04:58 AM   #1
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Default Super Major tune up @130K - replace o2 sensor too?

So I just cleaned my engine bay getting ready to replace the valve cover gasket & half moons. Seafoamed spray thru the Tb, in gas, and poured 4 oz in the crankcase. Also doing the NGK spark plugs, OEM cap + rotor, NGK wires. Cleaned K&N and will replace PCV valve filter and fuel filter and clean MAF and PCV. Will be replacing vacuum lines to silicone starting under the air box where its the hottest. Already replaced the EGR fat hose. Will do a Mobil 1 oil change and all fluids to Valvo 75W-90 synth and Redline MT GL4 for tranny. Will be doing the rear brakes too!


What else am I missing? Should I replace the O2 sensor too?



I still have the OEM on the exhaust pipe at 130K and the Denso is only $20. Normally you don't replace sensors unless they die (contrary to recommended intervals) but since (I think) the truck relies on this so much to get the mixture right I'm thinking I should replace it. Should I?



Greasing points? I only spotted one in the FSM that looked like the slip yoke in the MA section. Guess I should look at the front suspension components that could be greased too.



Would appreciate any tips, gotchas, etc...


Driver side door handle, inside and out is pretty tight, sometimes I have to pull on the inside twice to get the door opened. Haven't opened up the door panel to inspect. Broken part or just needs greasing?


edit: do I need to check the timing? never been touched before.


edit 2: When I ran the truck hard after the Seafoam I only had the airbox (covered) on and not with the pipe that ran across. What a difference! I'm sure its not just the sound that makes you think that its faster. I really think there's some restriction with that skinny pipe. Has anyone tried a cold air intake through the hole going into the fender behind the battery? It'll have to be a wide rectangular section to fit behind the battery but the cross section area will easily exceed the skinny pipe that runs across. I'll be keeping my K&N in the airbox or I have a spare conical K&N that I can place in the fender. thoughts?




94 KA24E 4x4


Thanks!

Last edited by Arv; 07-29-2020 at 05:51 PM.
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Old 07-29-2020, 06:12 PM   #2
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The balljoints and tie rods may or may not have grease fittings. Obviously, hit them with grease if they do. You may want to repack the wheel bearings, especially if you do any off-roading.

I would check the timing for sure. 10 btdc on the KA24E.
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Old 07-29-2020, 06:40 PM   #3
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With the electronics managing the timing these days, given that the timing has not been touched, what is the limit that the ECU can't adjust it properly? I never really knew the answer to this. Can't imagine it being that far off and my chain skipping a tooth. I would check it but I'd have to buy a timing light so I just wanted to make sure I need to. Thanks.
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Old 07-29-2020, 08:19 PM   #4
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Keep an eye out with all the detergents used. They will loosen up any chunks of oil in the engine which could in turn show some leaks.



I'd scrap the K&N. Yes, they flow a little better than a stock paper filter but the trade-off is that they don't filter very well. The oil helps some but they still filter far worse than a paper filter at catching dirt. Then there is the issue of too much or too little oil. This will be an issue if you are often in the dusty desert.



A true cold air will help some over a junk aftermarket "cold" air intake.



I wouldn't worry about the O2 sensor. If the OE is working I'd leave it at that. Often the aftermarket is not quite up to snuff on electronic bits.



I echo 'Bama. Grease up ball joints and check the wheel bearings.



Likely you'll just need some lube in the door. The little plastic bits like to become brittle. They are old. Be gentle with them.



I've never actually had a PCV fail. The ones in our trucks are extremely simple. I'd make sure it shuttles and isn't dirty and drop it back in.






Check garage sales for timing lights. Got my last one for $1 from an older guy that wasn't doing hot rods anymore.
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Old 07-29-2020, 11:29 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deerhurst View Post
Keep an eye out with all the detergents used. They will loosen up any chunks of oil in the engine which could in turn show some leaks.

A true cold air will help some over a junk aftermarket "cold" air intake.


I wouldn't worry about the O2 sensor. If the OE is working I'd leave it at that. Often the aftermarket is not quite up to snuff on electronic bits.


I echo 'Bama. Grease up ball joints and check the wheel bearings.


Likely you'll just need some lube in the door. The little plastic bits like to become brittle. They are old. Be gentle with them.


I've never actually had a PCV fail. The ones in our trucks are extremely simple. I'd make sure it shuttles and isn't dirty and drop it back in.


Check garage sales for timing lights. Got my last one for $1 from an older guy that wasn't doing hot rods anymore.

i've seafoamed the engine before so hopefully it won't be a big issue. Then I plan to change the oil every 2-2.5k. Heck that valve cover made a mess already so in case rear engine seal gives, it's probably time to replace my clutch anyway since once in a while it'll grind getting into 1st gear. Oh yeah gotta bleed that clutch too.


Is there a clutch linkage or bushing that commonly wears out on the d21 that can cause this?


Nah i want a franken CAI, I'm not spending $300 to gain 1-2HP lol. I'll look into it and bounce off some ideas, another route might be to move the radiator overflow and suck the air from behind the headlight or plus the fender.


Ok, I'll leave the O2 sensor alone and grease up. Moly grease ok? I already have that loaded on my grease gun.


Yup just got done lube-ing the door mech. used a lithium grease spray with the long red Seafoam hose to direct the spray and a plastic safe dry lube film for the plastic parts then oiled the key cylinder. Man what a diff! I should have done this years ago!



Yeah I do plan on just cleaning the PCV when I remove the oil filter. I was going to replace the PCV filter.


Thanks for all the tips!
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Old 07-30-2020, 12:17 AM   #6
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Fuel filter...
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Old 07-30-2020, 02:20 AM   #7
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Spending anything on any aftermarket intake is stupid. Any intake the pulls air from inside the engine bay is hurting your power. A $300 aftermarket "cold" air intake is probably wasting 3-5HP on a good day. Way worse on a hot day. Had a car with an OEM intake the pulled from under the hood. It would get hot fast once the intake temps reached 115F. On a hot, hot day it would be dangerously hot if I was sitting in traffic. Overheated on me once due to that.



Behind the headlight is worse than stock. You truck pulls air from the inner fender. If you wanted an actual power again would have to figure out a ram air intake.





Try bleeding your clutch. Flush the fluid. Might have plenty of water in it if it's old fluid. My factory clutch was still good at 176k miles.



I use marine grease for my ball joints and wheel bearings.



PCV filter? Little foam thing? Grab some dirt bike air filter foam for that. It's cheap and you'll have enough for your truck for decades and every power tool you own.
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Old 07-30-2020, 05:56 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deerhurst View Post
Spending anything on any aftermarket intake is stupid. Any intake the pulls air from inside the engine bay is hurting your power. A $300 aftermarket "cold" air intake is probably wasting 3-5HP on a good day. Way worse on a hot day. Had a car with an OEM intake the pulled from under the hood. It would get hot fast once the intake temps reached 115F. On a hot, hot day it would be dangerously hot if I was sitting in traffic. Overheated on me once due to that.

Behind the headlight is worse than stock. You truck pulls air from the inner fender. If you wanted an actual power again would have to figure out a ram air intake.

Try bleeding your clutch. Flush the fluid. Might have plenty of water in it if it's old fluid. My factory clutch was still good at 176k miles.

I use marine grease for my ball joints and wheel bearings.

PCV filter? Little foam thing? Grab some dirt bike air filter foam for that. It's cheap and you'll have enough for your truck for decades and every power tool you own.

I agree, that's why i was thinking of making one. I don't think they really made a real CAI for the D21, well they didn't have any when I was looking back in the day so I settled for a K&N.
If I was going to suck some air behind the headlight I would have to put a sealed fence against the hood and inner apron to keep the hot air being sucked in like the real CAIs, I guess that's more work so I'll stick to the fender intake but that's a project when I have some spare time.


Not familiar about dirt bike filters, mind posting a link to what it looks like, is it just a foam filter? thanks!
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Old 07-30-2020, 06:51 AM   #9
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I'm going to recommend something else for engine oil, since it has served me well.

Add one quart of Hy-Per-Lube to the crankcase FIRST.


Add any other oil of good quality you wish, in the factory-recommended weight. (I use Quaker State, mainly.) I suggest three and a half quarts additional, even though the book says only three. A half quart over never killed any engine that I know of. Don't know if I am right on wrong on my view of synthetic oils, but I don't trust them in engines that were made BEFORE they came up with synthetics.

The Hy-Per-Lube will put a honey-like coating on all moving parts, and prevent start up wear. Unlike some other additives, it really works. I don't use Marvels or SeaFoam because I think it's too thin to really do the job. STP of course is a seal-softening joke they should have banned thirty years ago.
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Old 07-30-2020, 01:53 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arv View Post
it's probably time to replace my clutch anyway since once in a while it'll grind getting into 1st gear. Oh yeah gotta bleed that clutch too.

1. I have 5 manual transmission vehicles.


2. I only shift into first when stopped.


Wouldn't hurt to bleed the clutch fluid out so only new is present, and no air.


I would leave the oxygen sender in place, you'll be super-pi$$3ed if you strip out the female threads !!!
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