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Old 10-21-2020, 12:37 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by AB3K View Post
that seemed to work, it went to single LED flashes, it kept repeating 4 green then 4 red.
Code 44 on the older trucks like your 1986.5 means that you don't have any sensor errors.

I've never owned a 1986.5, but I don't think that it runs very good without the air cleaner attached. There is a vacuum hose underneath that has to be connected or you have a vacuum leak.
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Old 10-21-2020, 12:50 AM   #12
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My truck won't even start without the filter assembly properly assembled. Sometimes I can get it to stay running with the top off but usually it stalls right out.



I have a V6 so my experience is with a slightly different motor but same injection mechanism.



You will have 1 or more vacuum lines on the bottom of the air filter assembly. One is for the hot air valve which can be plugged. You'll have vacuum lines for AB valve, EGR, charcoal canister and maybe a couple more that I'm missing. A big vacuum leak at the EGR or associated gaskets will cause idle issues. That's not an easy one to check and make sure the EGR is sealing like it should.



I'll try to think of more things to check since you have a 44 code.
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Old 10-21-2020, 01:00 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp2code View Post
Code 44 on the older trucks like your 1986.5 means that you don't have any sensor errors.

I've never owned a 1986.5, but I don't think that it runs very good without the air cleaner attached. There is a vacuum hose underneath that has to be connected or you have a vacuum leak.
air cleaner is only off to be able to see under it. the problem of sputtering and dying all happened with the air cleaner on.

will have to double check the vacuum hose'. i redid them all cause they were all falling apart, i may have done it incorrect. i used the diaram on the hood.

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Originally Posted by Deerhurst View Post
My truck won't even start without the filter assembly properly assembled. Sometimes I can get it to stay running with the top off but usually it stalls right out.



I have a V6 so my experience is with a slightly different motor but same injection mechanism.



You will have 1 or more vacuum lines on the bottom of the air filter assembly. One is for the hot air valve which can be plugged. You'll have vacuum lines for AB valve, EGR, charcoal canister and maybe a couple more that I'm missing. A big vacuum leak at the EGR or associated gaskets will cause idle issues. That's not an easy one to check and make sure the EGR is sealing like it should.



I'll try to think of more things to check since you have a 44 code.
i may have done the vaccuum lines wrong line mentioned aboved, but if there is anything else please let me know
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Old 10-21-2020, 01:16 AM   #14
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This is a color-coded diagram that I saved a few years ago.

Maybe it will help.

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Old 10-21-2020, 02:05 AM   #15
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Take a couple sets of vice grips with you. Fire it up and as it sputters start pinching off vacuum lines near the intake. Should help you isolate what's got a leak. If it's not that it's gotta be a gasket or a valve into the intake.



Is your PCV in good shape?
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Old 10-21-2020, 03:52 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deerhurst View Post
Take a couple sets of vice grips with you. Fire it up and as it sputters start pinching off vacuum lines near the intake. Should help you isolate what's got a leak. If it's not that it's gotta be a gasket or a valve into the intake.



Is your PCV in good shape?
I honestly couldn't tell you confidently if my PCV is in shape because im not even sure what that is or how to tell if its okay. but i will try what you've mentioned with the vice grips, and update this thread tomorrow.
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Old 10-21-2020, 03:55 AM   #17
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The PCV is literally an unsprung check valve from valve cover to intake plenum. I'm not exactly sure where it is on the Z24.
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Old 10-21-2020, 03:59 AM   #18
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Quote:
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The PCV is literally an unsprung check valve from valve cover to intake plenum. I'm not exactly sure where it is on the Z24.
is it visible on any of the photos on the first page of this thread i posted?

Edit: Is this exactly it?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9mZd8YYaG5Q
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Old 10-21-2020, 04:01 AM   #19
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I believe it's like the KA and the PCV screws into the side of timing cover. It's damn near impossible to see from up top but it's kind of down behind the alternator. You'll need a 19mm wrench to get it out. I don't think the PCV valve would have anything to do with engine stalling out, though. If anything it would cause a "hidden vacuum leak" as well as cause it to suck in oil through the intake manifold.
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Old 10-21-2020, 04:11 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SBJ View Post
I believe it's like the KA and the PCV screws into the side of timing cover. It's damn near impossible to see from up top but it's kind of down behind the alternator. You'll need a 19mm wrench to get it out. I don't think the PCV valve would have anything to do with engine stalling out, though. If anything it would cause a "hidden vacuum leak" as well as cause it to suck in oil through the intake manifold.



based on that video, this is the correct thing to check right? and how would I know if its bad upon removing it?
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